There's a drain plug in the bottom of the tank.
I think it's a square plug, perhaps a 1/2" ratchet will lock right in- I can't recall, though I've done it before.
One ounce of Seafoam is too much.
I keep hearing horror stories about seafoam.
Sounds to me like you might have coolant mixing into the cylinders.
no matter how old your gas might be, it shouldn't be 'thick'.
PS- stop setting fire to it.
put the spark plugs in, crank the engine with the...
I'm not clear on this- are you saying that having the AC equipment in the car somehow reduces radiant heat to the interior,
or are you saying that he should put in the AC in order to cool the interior down by using it??
Gas stuff?
It's either gas or it isn't. You'll know if its gas. take the efi fuse out and try cranking it.
That'll dry out the cylinders in a hurry, if it's indeed flooding.
So, I jacked up the car and tried to flex everything.
First, I made sure I had no cracks in the subframe. Looks good.
Then I tried moving each halfshaft with the parking brake set. Not a mm of movement on either.
Then I tried the driveshaft. About 1mm, but i had to use a prybar to do it.
I...
NO seafoam!
If you're trying to get it to start for the first time since the rebuild, the problem is most likely.....drumroll.....
THE CPS is out of alignment!!!!
Yay- I got to say it again! Even if you think you've got it aligned perfectly, it may be off by one tooth.
OR, you may...
How bout a combination of Razo's nice spoiler with a little fwd lip action?
The lip's upper edge would be the lower surface of the brake ducts.
Could that be done?
Too bad its not an R154- you could watch it work/ not work thru the inspection cover.
Since it is a W58- make sure you have the shift fork locked into the realease bearing, and not
resting outside of it. This would cause your exact problem I think.
My driveshaft is a DSS (driveshaft shop) aluminum unit with HD u-joints.
And no- none of my boots are torn on the halfshafts, and that's why I'm perplexed.
In fact, the halfshafts look almost new, even though they have 326,000+ miles on them.
I guess I'll crawl under the car and try moving...
What he said- but I'm guessing alot of heat comes through the tranny tunnel wall.
As air passes over the engine and gets heated, I imagine alot of it gets, well....tunneled through the tunnel.
I searched for 'clunk', but came up with nothing.
I've been getting a noise from the rear end for a little while now, noticeable when changing from reverse to first, or when shifting. I replaced the diff with another one(also because the pinion seal was leaking), but it didn't change the sound...
I don't think the pilot bearing could cause this.
And why would you think you don't have the pilot bearing in??
Did you take it out?
Does the clutch feel normal? Have you bled it?
Anyway- you said you know you put the disc in properly.
How do you know that? which side is facing the flywheel?
Agreed.
But like i said- The Kaminari look was pretty decent, I just don't want the lip to extend THAT far.
Granted- we're talking about a bolt-on lip, not a full bumper replacement. Someone photoshop a forward lip on the stock bumper, please?
My BOV stopped working not too long ago.
Found out it was the vac line disconnected at the PS pump.
That one becomes the hard line that crosses your lower timing cover, and feeds the entire vac rail.
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