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Don't be doing that too long or too often unless you're actually wanting to melt the catalyst...

The OP may still have cause to worry. Since he appears to be yet another example of the death spiral of science education in this country I was only addressing his core question. It doesn't mean there's nothing wrong with his engine or that there'd be nothing wrong with yours under similar...

Condensation will take place inside the engine any time ambient temperature is equal to or less than dew point. Not to mention the number one byproduct of combustion is water vapor...

You can't be serious...

There is no body ecu in these cars but using the TSRM (the TWED actually) to find the problem has been the best idea in the thread thus far. After all, we're talking about a very simple circuit. Funny you should say that because it's what I'm driving today. First time Ive had it out this year...

Body ecu huh? Where in the car is that located?

Not gonna happen...

Metric wires size (all wires in the car are metric) is denoted by cross sectional area in millimeters squared. That's what the 2.0 refers to. For that fusible link (p/n 90982-08202) the Body Electrical Manual says the L means 100. 100 what I'm not sure. Since 2.0 has a 10 second fusing...

If it were me I'd quit trying to do electrical troubleshooting and take up something where critical thinking isn't required. Something requiring much less skill. Tattooing perhaps...

You assume wrong. Btw how is it you can write fairly complex words but not simple ones? Some sort of cognitive impairment? If so does it also effect your ability to diagnose automotive problems?

I can sense the clueless even through this little cable. It's why I don't get involved in certain threads...

Hmmm. Something about all this smells bad...

You could try doing it like Toyota did. They didn't use zip ties...

Lmao...

I was going to say the same thing. A bad coil would effect all jugs. Plus coil resistance changes with temp. Plus it's tough to accurately measure resistance that low with a run-of-the-mill meter. I think his coil is fine but I suppose the cap or rotor could be at fault. If it were me I'd have...

His profile says GTE. That would mean the AFM has nada to do with the fuel pump...

Hmmm. I guess nobody uses starting ether or just plain old gasoline to sort these kind of problems anymore...

What 3p and Grim said, especially about ACF-50.

I dunno what "code reader" you're using but the MIL should do something when in diag mode. Furthermore if the light comes when *not* in diag mode a code has be set. And if the light stays on until the key is cycled that stored code is very likely to be 52. However a 31 wouldn't surprise me either...

It's not your TPS. Like 3p I'm at a loss about the emissions though. Very strange...