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You read my mind ;) The copy AFPRs too!

LOL...or, pulling the motor for "other" reasons ;)

Seems pretty straight forward...new OEM (Koyo's fine), upgraded dual core aluminum rad, or fix the one you have. Like IJ said, you need to find the leak for sure before you make a decision...have the system pressure tested. Replacing the hoses while you are at it is a good idea as well...

^^^ The exception is the Stat SuperStat ;) If you guys are getting rust, stat jamming up, etc...you might want to take a look at the last time you flushed/changed coolant...every two years is a good schedule. You want to run at least a 50/50 mix coolant to water...colder climates 60/40...

It's reasoning that has no basis in fact. Colder intake charge air, sure...lower coolant temps, ummm no. Now that you know, you can pass along the correct info next time you "hear" someone make a statement along these lines ;)

The stock cooling system has excess capacity ;) It's designed to keep the coolant close to 190 degs...just like yours does now. The stock temp gauge pointing at 4 o'clock is just about perfect and what you would expect on a stock system. BTW - I am glad it was the stat...that is a good...

The TCCS uses the SPD input for several different modes...it will affect them. Yes, it's because your speedo doesn't work...fix it.

You were told wrong ;) The thing is, a lower temp stat will not keep the motor cooler unless excess thermal transfer capacity exists...i.e you have a bigger rad providing additional coolant volume and greater efficiency to facilitate heat removal. This is not necessarily a good thing. On a...

The problem is there's only a couple filters that are worthwhile...Mobil 1 and K&N (both Champion Labs filters...same as WalMart SuperTech) come to mind. While both are good filters, the Wix is better for less $$$. And, Mobil 1 oil is another Grp III hydrocracked oil being sold as a...

Have you tried it without the SAFC in the loop? (i.e...disconnected and run straight with the ECU) What kind of wideband are you using. What brand/model AFPR?

Hmmm...I'd like to change her oil :naughty:

Mediocre filter at best (made in Thailand now, not Denso) and not a true syn oil...Grp III hydrocracked dino base stock. Might want to spend some time reading the oil section. Wix filters are hard to beat for the price. Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol) 0W-30 is an outstanding...

It actually depends on OAT, humidity and dew point. It's the pressure drop across the TB that causes a temp drop, resulting ice to form. It's relatively common on carburetor piston engine aircraft ;) Here's a chart when it's most likely to happen: Living in FL is not going to...

Just got back...nah, hung out in Beijing for a couple days. Did get a little shopping done...LOL. Poodles - I know what you're saying, but I don't think a FPD would do this...it would manifest itself over a larger portion of the power band. It's either: Power Enrichment - looks at...

^^^ LOL...you got it right ;) Air bleeds out of the system faster and it prevents a pressure built-up behind the stat that can keep it from opening at the spec temperature.

Sorry man, but I'm in China...I was flying when you posted above ;) Was the TPS used? If so, it's pretty likely it has the same flat spot as your original...that RPM is right where highway cruise is. If you can, test VTA for a smooth voltage rise as the TPS is turned. I suspect the ECU...

If this wasn't so wrong, it would be funny ;) The 190 stat is what you want like the previous guys said. OEM or a Stant SuperStat...make sure you get a new rubber gasket for it. Cut the jiggle valve off and put the hole that remains at 12 O'clock when you install it. Personally, I'm...

Thanks for the pic...just making sure the routing was correct. It is ;) (The PCV seems to be one of the most screwed up when a catch can gets involved) I think you figured out the problem...pirate air via the can itself.

Might want to check the subframe bushings.

The main reason for a BHG on the 7M is a low factory torque spec. Upgrades (ARP hardware, MHG) make it much more resistant...go lean and there's not much that's gonna stop blowing the motor. No EGR on a USDM ECU makes this a much more likely event...on a stock HG at factory torque the HG will...