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Rebuilt the cps today. Screw the outer O-ring... It's that inner seal that turns hard as a rock and leaks...

Sorry to hear about this, but it'll be good that you can actually drive it again. I'm jealous of you for that. :)

Got some little parts in the mil today: m3.6 screws for the butterfly in the throttle body, DM pulley kit, CPS rebuild kit, Prothane strut rod bushings(but those are for the MR2), and an M14x1.25 tap. Turns out the screws(from Hong Kong) for the throttlebody are 6mm in length instead of 8mm...

So you're getting the ge and the gte? Good news. it really seemed like rebuilding that original grenaded ge motor would have been a futile move. Getting it changed from rear sump to front sump? I thought it would be the other way around.

Great info, and thanks for the link Albert.

Yeah, the spot that it takes just replaces the outlet that normally went to the turbo's coolant line. But if you look where the two sensors are on the side of the coolant elbow, there is one untapped boss that I intend to drill out so that I can add an additional overtemp sensor. The bvsv will...

Yeah, that's what I have- an '86 hardtop with a 4age.

Same here- I'll be in the AW11.

Today I put more of the motor together.

Me too. It's all degreased now, but I have to get it over to my friend John's house and HOPE it fits into his powdercoating oven.

I think you're right figgie, and running them I think would require you either have an 89+ setup for high impedance, or delete the resistor box somehow. Plus, you'd have to have the rail machined out for the 14mm size.

yup. 1.25 thread pitch, and at least 15mm in length

Well, you could wire an oil pressure switch to cut power to the fuel pump relay, or the csi etc., I suppose. But I would wonder if you'd need a short delay timer, to allow the engine to run for a second or two during startup, before it allowed the pressure switch to be active. I bet J.J. could...

Progress is progress. :)

Did some more small things today. Installed the power steering pump. I had rebuilt it awhile ago, but never ran it, so it's essentially new. Installed the fuel injectors and rail(after polishing it, Absolute Speed). Installed Gates racing belt, front lower cover and the ATI super damper...

And?

You sprayed the maf with cleaner? From what I've read over the past ten years, that's no bueno. The actual metering mechanism inside is somewhat optical, utilizing a mirror arrangement. Do you have another MAF you can try?

Alot of cars run oil switches that throw up an idiot light if you fall below 5psi. I added one of these to my block(screws right in) and will run an idiot light and buzzer. This is because while i constantly scan my coolant temp and oil pressure whilst driving, I occasionally look up to steer...

Yeah, I know alot of people get away with removing the damper without detriment, but since it doesn't degrade performance, I'd rather keep it. ps- the part is made by unisteer(part #8021550), and was originally intended as a power steering rack connector. Got it from Summit racing.

Yes. I had myself checked once, but I thought i was mis-diagnosed. So I walked counterclockwise around the doctor's office 3 times and had myself checked again