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boss makes a good bang for the buck turbo, from what i have read. others are upgraded CT-26s (54, 57 etc), the greddy 20g upgrade, turbonettics makes a bolt on 60-1 and a bolt on 62-1, and of course there are the JT series.

wow, this should NOT be in the open area, someone needs to lock this bitch down and delete it. back to the topic, there are 3 types of keys, OEM(came on the computer), Retail (bought in store) and volume liscence (corperation w/ alot of computers runnign their own "build" of windows). your...

well, the head is gonna get taken off, and the block needs to be prepped for a MHG, so might as well have them check it while they are there.

now it just depends on the date, and if i need to get my motor bored over. it should be good, concidering it has under 60k on it.

not bad at all. you def need some turboage, lol.

matrices ive done are nice and easy with the proper calc. look into a ti-89, those things are the shit once you figure out how to do them.

think about it this way, with stockish power in a VW bug (read 1800-2200 lbs) it would put it in the 12s or 13s. granted you would need to hack the back a little bit to fit, but it would be sick.

ok, so after reading through the 173 posts i noticed they are doing only .20 and .40 sizes, and are not doing a stock size, correct? i might be down for a set seing how im going to be aiming for more than 400 in a bit.

i was thinking of fiberglassing it but urethane would work as well.

both will fit, but you will need the respective bellhousings and flywheels off of the JZ motors.

question, is the bumper cover solid in the upper part (the top part that is different than the <88). i wouldnt mind hacking it off, as i like the look of the <88 front better than the 89>. i just want to know how much work im in for.h

the question is, how often are you going to be changing the boost. most people that i have met with a MBC set the boost and forget it. if you are going to be changing it i would go map based and use an EBC.

ive got a KYB GR-2 and eibach pro kit combo. i like how the car is on smooth pavement and around corners, but over bumps it is a little harsh. also the frame rails are about 6 inches off the ground, so its really low. i would not sudjest this setup on a daily.

a sand rail, then i would thrash it till it blew up.

you arent the only one that wants to do that. i think the 7m would look pretty nice in an SC300 as well...

just dont mount the kill switch in a place where it is easily seen, kicked or any place where they are commonly mounted. to the origional poster, i am quite sorry for your loss. hopefully your insurance wont fuck you on what they give you and that you will have enough to build up another.

how did that 70mm work out on the NA manifold, and how much was the inside ported. im quite interested in that setup as im running a NA-T and will be looking for a bigger turbo and everything needed.

IIRC the MKIV dp will fit on a MKIII, you might have to get a little creative after the DP however.

the 850s running on the base map with the twin pumps were at an AF around 10.5 under boost at 22.5PSI. ide think that the 720s would be good enough with some tuning and meth:)

ill echo csnow here, 67 or 71. if they are close in price ide get the 71, just keep the boost moderate.