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Did you have the block decked without the rear timing cover? If so, then it's not the gasket's fault, it's the timing cover's.

True. I do think that a stock organic disc on a stronger pressure plate is a great mild upgrade if you're heading towards 350hp.

The rubber doesn't do anything, really. Don't know why they put in on there. I removed it on mine, and powdercoated the rear arm. ps- The black you tried using that turned grayish- probably because on the temp/ humidity combo you have in Alabama. It's happened to me before, here in GA as well.

No, no fuel management system for that upgrade. Because the increase in both air and fuel is 25%, you preserve the mixture balance. The ecu has no idea that more air and fuel are going into the engine, it just knows the karman frquency in the afm, and sends injector duty cycle to match. Then...

Appreciate the info.

True and true.

Looks good there. For hoses, I used AN-10 (aka 5/8) Jeg's pushlock hose, and 3/8 transmission cooler hose. Both are tight fits on the cooler, resevoir and pump.

I wouldn't set up any support for the turbo that wasn't attatched to the block or head. The engine moves in relation to the shock towers, so you can't tie in there. It would actually be a stress point rather than a cure.

As far as your other questions- I don't think you even have to bother with a fuel pump upgrade, unless you're concerned with the original's longevity, which is a valid point. You can do the Walbro pump with zero mods, and still run oem injectors. I did for years. If you do the DM57 trim...

That deck surface is NO good. You have to have it decked, even for an oem gasket. In fact, looking at pic#5 of the block, I'm not even sure you can take enought off to allow the coolant passages to seal. I know you don't want to hear this, but the deck's pock marks really scare me.

Very pretty turbo. I'm planning on adding an upper turbo support as well, using two empty holes on the upper part of the cylinder head. I'm just paranoid about all that weight hanging out, off the side of the head, and I don't want engine and exhaust movement to strain the manifold bolts.

Looks great, but you know that you could have just taken the wipers themselves off the arms, so that you wouldn't have to mask off the rubber...

First batch of AEM Stealth pumps had the wire colors reversed on the plug. So it had to be black for +, red for -. Are you SURE it's wired correctly?

As long as the resevoir is higher than the pump(and has fluid in it), it should flow to the pump, even if it goes uphill a bit. Camry resevoir, just behind the headlight. My IC pipes wouldn't allow for the na resevoir, and I hate the turbo unit.

Most people with stock ecu and stock injectors hit fc around 11-12psi. You added 25% more air and fuel. Guess what a 25% increase over 12psi is? You've gotten where you should be. Back off the wastegate shim by a washer. See how it goes.

I think so, yes.

Hmm, Your block's the same color as mine.

Did you drill out, or remove the J-tube? I cant imagine though, that it would cause such massive flooding. Are the injectors new or used? Almost sounds like the injectors are stuck open.

Good looking rims. Hope you get the running issue worked out.