Search results

thats the paper i got..

no.. i didnt. everything was smooth.

OK so it turns out.. (after i look at the paper that ups gave) that he put the value of my $15 used intake adapter at $100 us or $108 canadian...that is why i had to pay fucken $55 for the fucken fees.. why the fuck.. i'm soo pissed off right now.. sorry for my swearing.. i just dont understand...

So basically my car will start and run.. but wont stay on (wont idle).. it just dies. when i start it up.. it just hits 1000rpm and then slowly dies. i thought it was the iacv.. so i changed it... and nothing was different. the car will stay on if i hold on the gas.. or if i really adjust the...

"fragile" makes it worse lol.

So basically. i ordered a boost controller a few weeks ago for $100 and when it arrived i had to pay an extra $55 COD for brokerage fees?? wtf so i brushed that aside.. i ordered an intake adapter for $15 and i told the guy to ship with usps because ups is bs and i told him about the above...

i thought arp bolts were supposed to be torqued to 86?

hopefully we all learn from this.

i think upgrading is just cosmetic imo.. you should be fine

im having the same problem. I literally just bought a iacv and im gonna put it in tomorrow or sometime this week. as for the timing i found it's real jumpy too. so i try to get it as close as possible. i'll see if that helps me. i'll let you know.

i can barely afford to keep my car on the road :( spent $1500 to buy my 87 turbo. spent probably $1500 on parts alone (no go fast parts)!! and its still not running good yet.. im 19 and i had my car since this may.. and drove it only for 3 weeks... since i got it.. $$$$$$ why did i get myself...

Hey i was just wondering if the problem was ever fixed? because right now Only my passenger side window doesnt work .. driver side works.. but when button on either driver side or passenger side are pressed.. nothing happens.. no noises or anything.. and my windows were working fine.. i had it...

Are you getting any codes? The pinging could be detonation.. causes could be running lean, or timing, or too much compression. could be bad knock sensors or connectors. idk. pull your codes

you cant get a drop out of ANY of your lines?? do you feel pressure when you pump the brakes? you leave your car running right?

which bleeder screw did you break? if its the rear ones. just bleed the front brakes and see if you have adequate braking power to drive home. ckeck if you see any leaks (dripping brake fluid from anywhere.. ) if you bleed the fronts right. you should have good braking power still.. bleed all...

im replacing my knock sensor cuz the connector broke. but i dont see why u cant solder the wire to the sensor. idk

sorry but no one ever told me to touch the screw... nor did i see anything in the stuff i read so far telling me not to. ofcourse i didnt read everysingle thing possible yet.. its all a learning experience. anyway.. so basically.. i should screw it in all the way? take off my iacv and clean...

ok so today i changed the park plugs and wires.. and no difference.. still idles a little rough.. and dies out when its cold. when i start the car when it is cold. it struggles to stay on.. like it just slows down and dies.. but when i keep my foot on the gas until it warms up and then adjust...

Yes rechecked the codes and all im getting is the knock sensor code 52. ecu coolant sensor should be connected properly. plugs and wires.. i dont know how old they are. came with the car when i bought it about 3 months ago. the electrode on the spark plugs look good still. wires look...

OK guys thanks for all your help. i got it to drive past 3000rpm. idk what did it. i taped up the lip of the intake hose (accorian hose) <---- just a temporary fix until i buy a new one .. dont yell at me lol. i checked all my other hoses and they are ok... i took out the afm.. wiped it down and...