trololol goes me
Oh, and hi Kenny! How have you been? I highly envy your large, heated garage...as well as your purdy shiny car!
IBAS- I lol @ your avatar : D
It's all in the way Fred phrased it. I think he was referring to the springs being too tight, rather than the valves themselves and I don't think the springs ever got installed... but I think Fred would be able to clear this confusion up quickly. Also realize- this is a 7M valve spring kit, and...
Fred has Ferrea dual springs, where as you and I have single comp springs.
ninja- my guess to his problem was the inner spring binding on the valve stem seal
All the more reason to work with a machine shop who knows what they are doing. When I showed up with my block for machining he noticed it right away.
I'm glad I used OEM plugs as well, seeing as Sean's engine dropped all its coolant due to an aftermarket one D: !
Feenicks- I had my block...
I went with them on my initial build because my stock springs were weak and the comp's were the cheapest option. Since Rob hasn't had issues with them I'll see how they do with these 272's.
The benefit would be better seat pressure if you're running high boost to keep the valves from leaking...
Comp Cams is the company that makes the valve springs we like.
For those who don't know, they are almost a perfect upgrade with higher seat pressure and a better coil bind rate, and they are the inner spring taken from a dual spring kit for a Big Block Chevy engine. All that means to you is...
I believe them on the springs, but the retainers are a mystery for me... myself and Rob (92NSX) are running the comp cams BBC springs , and Rob hasn't had any issues that I'm aware of. (Aside from uber lean at idle=crappy idle+dies)
Main reason for the springs would be to prevent coil bind...
That's great. If the tuner knows the program, they can get a better tune dialed in faster, which can save you time and money in the end!
fwiw, I use an AEM and my tuner is well versed in AEM tuning, as well as Supra tendancies. All of this adds up to my tune being freakin awesome! :D
indeed. sounds like the gpu may be either blown or overheating. If its in warranty, send it in. If its out, then he has to decide whether or not to send it in (for unknown $$) or try to clean the heatsink and apply new thermal compound himself.
Last question- have you tried a brand new HDMI...
Does is start out OK then distort or is it always crappy from the moment you turn it on? I had an issue where the heatsink on mine was plugged and wasn't cooling well. I have also heard of thermal compound replacement (use artic silver 5 imo) on the gpu heatsink helps greatly...but all of those...
So what is the general lift/duration point when solid/underbucket shims becomes a necessity? I was looking at a set of Toda cams (288/304 waaaay too much for my car) but they only had ~8.5mm lift. Made me think about that since toda made an underbucket shim kit...
Your reply is rather late for someone actually wanting help.
...unless you're a troll D: Do you know what happens to trolls? I'll give you a hint:
Troll --> ('x_x)G-(._.Q) <-- SM
Help us help you dude!
Sweet, thanks Ian. I'm fairly sure I have one of those in the tank right now, so it might be the cheapest way to go... but the tank would need a new access panel to fit them both. Hmmm
We need information from you, good sir!
1- How much money do you have to spend
2- How much power do you want to have in the end
3- How much work are you able to do (has to be top-notch quality work, not backyard stuff)
4- How long are you able to wait for this to come to fruition?
Reply...
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