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Well you're no fun! :stickpoke: I think you should be able to make it for the cruise if you're there around 3ish, it'll be close though.

The rotors come coated standard, now. Not sure when it changed but mine were coated without any special instruction... The rotor hats came natural, so I think Beefy might have had them coated himself.

You have no idea... Lets put it this way- a gauge has already been mounted- it WILL happen :evil2:

So what're you trying to say, then? HMMMMMM? :ugh:

Chris, good eye! However, there is plenty of slack in the wires and throttle cable- the thottle cable is the one that looks tight, but it loops around the back of the engine (which is where all the slack is). No kits or prefabbed stuff here, just a bored gearhead with a free frame and a $10...

No work done to the Supra lately, but a good cleaning of the garage is in order after I finished reassembling my summer DD! Should be much more stable and reliable than the previous versions, but we'll see after work tomorrow!

Mike- You better believe it! My supra's going to be packed to the brim on the way up! Andy- cool deal, lemme know what he says! You had better not call me from the bathroom, though D:

You will need a minimum of 17" rims to clear the ARZ kit (and even then not all rims will clear due to the calipers being HUGE!) Here's a set of ICW 17x7 (offset +40) rims that cleared wth no problems EDIT: oops, wrong pic x.x And my new rims which are 18x8 (offset +38) that did not clear...

pics fail x.x

YOu will have brakes no matter if you have vecuum or not- just not boosted brakes. If you are losing your vacuum reservoir after shutting your car off, then either the gasket or the check valve have failed. Congrats on getting the brakes sorted!

"Proportioning and balancing valve" They are rather rare to fail, but not unheard of. Try this: when you get the brakes locked up, crack the lines at the master cylinder (not at the caliper) open and see if the braes release. If the master cylinder is fully released and is still holding...

:O Jake is alive! lol, 4 posts in the last 2 years...

There's also a master cylinder to brake booster adjustment that needs to be zero'd out. If its too far out it will hold the master cylinder slightly on and when the fluid heats up it will lock 'em up. Too loose and the pedal feels like its got air in the system. Sadly you need to remove the...

No CEL usually means ECU is not getting power or ground, but the fact it will run when you get the pump to run is very odd. I would start by checking to see if the ECU has all of its powers/grounds since you don't have much to go off of. After that check the fuel pump (aka circuit opening) relay...

Bump it up! Who's coming peoples?

trollololol :P

Sounds like you have the right idea! Shoot me the price when you have a chance! Again, for clarification- (Do want) satin > wrinkle > flat > gloss (meh)

Yep, that's the right one, it just looked like the smallest one- space is an issue with the heat/dipstick/etc. Umm, no bracket? I think 2 holes drilled/tapped M6x1.0 in a vertical line (about 1" space between them) close to the center of the can on the backside would be best, I can make...

Viewed as it is in your picture, from the front of the car. I'll be using a factory mounting hole that used to support the coolant control valve. See post #462, it will be mounted in that location. Mainly I'm looking for a smaller package that will fit in that location, since my oil dipstick is...

Cool, I think the left center (red) one would works best, of course painted black. 2- 1/2" inlets on the right side, and 1- 5/8" outlet on the left I think would be the best setup. See how much that would be and what details he would want. Took a picture of my car with the 18's on it after...