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yes, by new valve cover gaskets, then buy some #6 allen head ss bolts with washers to replace the stock philips head screws. they need to be i beleive 30mm long. but just measure a stock screw to be sure. put a lil dab of blue loctite on the thread of the new allen head bolts before installing...

its called clearance. as you polish the am and journals you remove material and increase the clearance. also, you arnt gonna make it perfectly round as it needs to be. the machine shop will have to turn the cams, mill the caps, then line bore the saddles. thats the only way to fix it right.

you think those cams cant be pulled down into contact with the head? you make the belt too tight, then whe nthe crank starts spinning it pulls the belt DOWN which puts more load on the cams etc.. its what ive seen in person. watched a guy do his belt that way and had a perfect head. then like a...

i did say usually only the front 3 caps are scored. the cam rubs the head then metal spins around and scores the caps as well. never seen any caps scored on any head but the front 3 myself. and ive been inside prolly 70+ 7m's from my own, pther peoples cars and pulling the shims at the junkyard...

they can machine the cams then machine the caps then line bore the saddles to bring it back to spec. its not cheap though.

normal sadly. what happens is people dont let the spring on the tensioner for the timing belt tighten the timing belt. they think its better to pull it tighter so it causes that. usually just the front 2-3 caps on each cam. geeeting ahold ofa head that isnt like that is hard. but i did get ahold...

if all he needs is an empty 7mgte block to get tanked and machined i got one i might let go. lol. i got 4 7mgte's out of the car right now, not counting the one in my 84 thats running. 1 is an empty block with no crank or anything. tell him to pm me if he is interested. it is at standard bore...

i agree. i reused a hks 2mm hg like 5 times before i ended up blowing it from a fpr that went out. the 1.2mhg on my current 7mgte was reused from the old 7mgte i melted my #1 piston in cause of those venom injectors i bought like 3.5 years ago.

get rid of that oil folter adaptor and get a relocation kit. look at the pics of my 84 supra. i did a 7mgte swap on it like 7 years ago. i got lots of other pics that arnt on the cardomain if there is anything specific you need to see. just ask by pm in case i dont check the thread that often...

yes, but we are in the good ole usa. lol. there are tons of parts for the 8.8 as well. lol. check out www.summitracing.com for starters. and then the 4x4 shops have even more selections usually. ;)

i didnt say it couldnt be done. lol. just sayin i feel the 8.8 would be a better fit. i know you got a 9in in yours.

i have a mk2, it is a 7.5in diff. and the ford 8.8 irs diff is stronger thne a mk4 diff and MUCH cheaper, especially when it comes to lsd options and forged gears.

i never go by wire color. i go by pin location. i dont trust just looking for the correct color wire. i start at the correct connector and pin always. sounds like a pain but it isnt. im no expert at electronics but reading a schematic and wiring things up is a walk in the park for me. lol. ive...

i had an issue with a random misfire and occasionally it would start. endd up pulling the insulation off the cps wires going across the valve covers and they had cracks in them most the way across. taped them all up individually then wrapped again as a whole to clean the harness back up and the...

i just used one of the ones thats on the 7mgte stock as i removed them and all unecc vacume crap. but hondas have them, nissans, etc.. its a very common thing

a vacume switching valve would fit in your pocket at the pick and pull. i did this about 6 years ago. got old. i never had it switched to the low setting so took it out and gave it away.

so you planning on making something stupid like 2k hp? the 8.8 diff will hold over 1k easy with a forged gearset and spool. so why go through the hassle of the 9in which doesnt have a center input and would have to be offset to the side etc? why make things more dificult then they have to be...

the wiring for the edis is so simple its ridiculous. then again i do component level troubleshooting on tv's and crap and have my as in electronics so maybe thats why i think its so simple. lol. all i know is i havent tuned with this before and want to learn, and not the hard way either. lol.

9in isnt as good for a supra imho, sure it is stronger, but the input isnt centered. me and another guy on the celicasupra forum are looking at swapping in the aluminum 8.8in ford pumpkin. if my trutrac ever breaks that is deff what will be done. and even if it doesnt break ill likely still do...

also, has anyone used the autotune? would that be ok to set all the ve tables? or only trust it with off boost? im still researching and reading alot and really dont want to mess this engine up. lol.