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Well, progress is halted for a bit. I need to clean out the rear driver side wheel well, then move the car to the other side of the garage. Light is better if I leave the car backed in, not to mention it keeps me away from the cracked open garage door a bit. Being that winter is setting in, is...

That badge just blocks airflow to the condenser and radiator anyway. Only a tiny bit, but still. :p

Wheels and rotors, yes. Calipers are another fairly big area you can lighten things up. Tires to a *small* extent, but that is going to be a case-by-case basis. Suspension components are also unsprung weight, correct? I may be mistaken there, but I thought they were. Either way, yet another...

I think Nick meant a CT-26, the stock turbo, which you don't seem to be running. However, "t3/t4" just tells us you have one of two different footprints for the turbo, doesn't really say much about it at all... You could have a turbo with a T4 footprint that is choked to hell at 25psi, or you...

I've heard it is a bit more difficult for whatever reason, but I would at least check them to make sure they're uniform. You'd be surprised how far apart I've seen "pre-gapped" plugs.

Occasionally you'll see some manifolds pop up to run a Garret GT25 or 28 turbo in the classifieds, once in a while a KKK setup will pop up for sale, but for stock twins, run stock manifolds. You're probably going to want to upgrade to a modern turbo sooner or later anyway. :) Alternatively...

If the rest of the car is in great condition (wheels, tires, suspension, interior, body, brakes), then $2500 for a shell isn't a horrible price at all. However, bodywork is time consuming, interior parts get expensive, as do the rest of the things I mentioned. Up to you though, what is it worth...

Was just curious if you had a ballpark in relation to what other limited market mods like this cost, knowing the Mk3 crowd and its tendencies. Anyway, I used to run 17x9.5 +50 up front with 275/40's, and while the grip was fantastic, you would occasionally hit the sway bar if you didn't know...

Not our fault the clocks down there are upside down is it? :p

You're trying to build a 1000hp car without killing your pocket? ::popcorn:: You'll have to let us know how that goes for ya. Ever heard of the phrase, "fast, cheap, reliable. Pick only two?" Anyway, in seriousness, I've heard really good things about BW turbos being durable and reasonably...

Some people, such as my brother, choose the older technology simply because of preference for "tradition". In his case, with old cars, it makes more sense than in your case, IMO. My ONLY point of argument in this Gen1 versus LS thing is the weight issue. Only issue as far as I'm concerned, but...

Glued the head on? Uhh... Seriously?

Nobody understands Japan dude. :p Having a bit of a laugh at translation attempts here. Projectsupra beat me to the translation clarification. :)

Can't definitively say one way or the other, but your logic is sound. What is stopping you from dropping the tank and finding out?

If the OP is dead set on staying with the Toyota family, he could always get the 5.2 stroker for the 1UZ. That's different enough, no? However, LS is always an option in my book. :)

You know, at first I was going to recommend that you save at least 2x what you're planning on spending (good rule anyway), but after reading about an Avenger with a VR4 swap? Mechanically... I'd say you probably have what it takes, just a finance thing now. Good luck in your hunt, and if I part...

Damned good for a stock wheel though, I've always threatened to steal my buddy's wheel in his Corolla. :p Plugs should always be gapped, just to be sure that they're all the same. ;)

IIRC, Stance has a pretty high end setup as well, complete with external reservoirs, separately adjustable rebound and dampening, customizable spring rates when ordering... seemed nice, but definitely pricey.

Have never come across any that weren't custom fabricated AND high quality myself.

Rod knock on these engines is almost as common as blown head gaskets. Rod bearings going bad are a good bit more likely than main bearings. Basically, if it is knocking, it's only worth as much as the condition of the shell is.