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Yeah its the one with two studs on the block i can't even see or get at. I thought i'd be able to remove it on the turbo side of things but again, DENIED.

Poodles - the FPD won't swivel out the way to get the last fuel rail bolt out, otherwise i'd leave it in :/ The banjo bolt is off, but the oil FEED is connected at BOTH ends. I can't remove EITHER end for lack of space...or unable to FIND them.

For the fuel pulsation damper - i'm guessing it's either 19 or 22mm, but without a set of calipers, i can't measure (i have no idea where they are). Also - i just CANNOT fathom how to remove the oil feed bolts for the CT26 - i've removed the union bolt next to the oil pressure sender without...

Why aren't you using the TSRM? The Haynes book of lies is of no use.

Stock, new Toyota Headgasket, and ARP head studs torqued to 80lb/ft. Should be okay for upto 14.7psi then. I have a replacement turbo to go on it as well. I think the oil feed to the turbo has rotted away as well.

Here are the pics of how it stands now: Yes, thats the upper intake manifold on the floor. Still struggling like a bastard to get the turbocharger off, so i can get the exhaust manifold off. Then i can get the head off, and then fit a new headgasket. For now though, i've been working for...

Moved to the right section - this is the INTRO section, not technical.

I AM NOT A HAPPY MAN. Check this...driving today culminated in the Power steering belt snapping on a hairpin bend at 50mph...try having your steering just go DEAD on you. Nearly stuffed it into a tree at high speed. Missed it by a Rizla. If that wasn't bad enough, the headgasket blew on the way...

The cable made no sense for me either - but i was concentrating more on the internals. For a box rebuild, what am i looking at getting, parts wise, aside from the obvious gaskets & oil seals? Clutch packs & brake bands?

In for the win.

Old news.

Go to dealer. Order. Pay. Wait. Pick up. Fit. Happy.

Burp the coolant system. Get the nose of the supra up in the air, either on ramps, or parked on a steep gradient, and make sure there's no air in the system.

Stock CT26 - adjustable actuator set to 8 to 9psi. I'm not after silly power really, just a bit more zip than standard.

Well, it's been set to 12' BTDC and i can so far report no ill effects, even at WOT, 3rd & 4th gear pulls like a train, and i know it's unscientific, it 'feels' faster. Ass-dyno FTW! :D Would be nice to put this on the rollers and see if theres any difference in power/torque just from 2 degrees...

Most Mk3's here are in such poor shape due to the salted, gritted roads for 3 months of the year...it's like shotblasting the car while you drive it. The rear arches also have no kind of arch liner for protection either.

Today! Been spending some time cleaning up more of the wiring harness on the passenger side (Drivers side, for you), so off came the ignitor, the injector resistor pack and the relay. The bodywork was cleaned with a toothbrush and some kerosene, then wiped clean with a soapy sponge. Came up...

In. And for once, surprisingly empty.

ITS BACK, BABY! :D Coil pack wiring isn't perfect, but twisted & soldered, and covered with heatshrink should do the trick...ideally, i'd like to rewire half the fucking engine bay...but right now - not feasible - and i'll just have to deal with what i've got! The power steering fluid...

http://www.thedesignblog.org/entry/hornet-gyroscopically-balanced-superbike-can-turn-on-a-five-cent-coin/ AWESOMENESS. I WANT! :D