Search results

I guess this thread is for clarification more than anything. Before the rebuild, the turbo would spool to 10psi (off the gauge) and pull like a train. The turbo itself hasn't been touched (aside from fresh gaskets, and the housing cleaned). Now, the turbo takes a few seconds to spool, and when...

Are all the folks here that are using the N/A reservoir using hardpipes, or stock plumbing? I have the N/A reservoir but stock plumbing fouls it...unless theres a trick i'm not yet aware of.

Seriously guys? This is a tech question in the introduction section and you're replying to it? If you see this kinds stuff - REPORT it, don't REPLY to it! Thread closed.

May i also present: Yes, that is MIG welding wire. Yes, that piston has been welded by a 9 year old on crack.

Check page 32. Mother of god. :nono:

I'd be interested, but only if they'd clear MkIV TT 17's. If there'd be another kit that's just upgraded fronts that would fit stock 16" rims however....

What the *FUCK* is going on here: Clearly a PRO WELDER. O.o

So the Lx outputs are parallel data derived from a serial input? The AT section of the TSRM, page 29, says Lx outputs are 0 to 12v, but another Toyota PDF i have says the following: The dilemma is obviously, which one to believe. Would you be able to measure the output levels using that...

Quick question Jon - the L1/L2/L3 outputs, the 3-bit signal....are they LVTTL or VDDs? I'm assuming they're TTL signals, but i have no way of confirming this. Geoff and I are trying to work out the inputs to the FPGA in the transmission controller project! :)

Yeah i figured that much - although i've narrowed down the idle issue after the CPS (going from 750 to 950rpm) to a missing vacuum connection between the accordion hose and the PS pump idle up valve - i think. Check my build thread IJ - you'll see a video of it running :)

Yes, stock electronics. For now. UK Spec Supra's don't use the BVSV for anything. And no, there's no EGR. There's also no catalytic converter, charcoal canister (our tanks vent to atmosphere) and our vacuum system is vastly simplified.

Small update - got the thing up to temperature again, and set the static timing to 10' BTDC with my timing light. Unfortunately, the idle is jumping around from 750 to 950rpm, which is a little annoying, although I *think* most of it is due to there being a missing vacuum line from the power...

I'll do what i usually do - unplug the rad, shove a hose in the top and leave it til the stuff coming out the bottom is clear.

It'll have to wait til August i'm afraid - there's little in the way of extra funds - surely generic anti-freeze can't be THAT bad?

It's a new water pump for one, and secondly, although i have two 5 litre bottles of it in the UK in a Friends Garage, it's stupid money here - upwards of $20 a bottle. Same as oil & transmission fluid :/

All sorted out - CPS put in place like so: With the crank and cams set to 0* TDC - i'm doing the timing light jobs tomorrow, but it catches and starts first time every time now :)

So today, after getting back from the store, i decided that enough was enough, and it was going to run...TODAY. No if's, no buts, no arsing around, just jacked it up, plugged in the starter motor (after much huffing and puffing with the jack), and it kicked over. So, EFI fuse was removed, some...

Shaeff - you are a goddamn lifesaver! This was EXACTLY my problem!

Yep - turned out to be the CPS, i think it's off by a tooth, as i've set the crank/cam to TDC again, but the CPS still didn't go in right. However, now, it idles around 550rpm and it'll rev to 3000rpm. It's a fiddly arse of a job. I'll do some more tomorrow, when it, and me, have cooled down!

Hey guys. So, i finally managed to get everything back together, and plug in the starter (bastard to get in there). Oil was refilled (10w40), and coolant was refilled. Primed for 30 seconds to get the oil pressure up - everything looked good, there were no ominous noises coming from anywhere...