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these pics are from last summer while my motor was still out of the car. the before picture illustrates how my engine bay looked right after i pulled my N/A motor out. (rodknocked:() please notice how grimy it is. it disgusts me now. mind you, when i first got my car, i loved it, but i knew...

oh, i meant for me it's not necessarily an attachment issue. (but i AM attached to this chassis) that's odd that you say that. i wish i could find the origional owner of my car, and show up at their house after i get it painted. i bet they'd be delighted to see it in such good repair. :)...

normally, i would agree. however, judging by what i've been spending my money on, i guess i'm a hypocrite. :( i buy go-fast parts with the money i've been saving for bodywork and paint. however, to redeem myself, i have almost all of the parts that need to go on before paint. :) and to...

it's not even an attachment issue. it's just that someone else would look at my car, (and MANY do) and think it's a total junker. when, it actually hands many high class cars their asses on the street. it just doesn't look the part, yet. ;) -shaeff

if your car is a pre '89 then the new '89+ harness probably won't clip into your ECU. by the way, jdub and rakkasan: thanks for the kind words. :) -shaeff

start by pulling the 15A EFI fuse in the engine bay fuse box, near the battery. leave it out for a minute. put it back in, drive the car, and see if the code comes back. if so, read on: code 52 has nothing do with anything besides the knock sensors. either A) one or both sensors are bad, or...

my car is a rustbucket. i'm slowly in the process of repairing it all. everyone who says "get a new chassis" is just helping to contribute to the mkiii junkyard population. :( that's too bad. i'd rather fix what i have, but that's just me. even if i could get a cleaner mkiii chassis than mine...

before i pulled my motor, i had a 5k+ rpm miss. it was solved with new plugs and wires. -shaeff

haha. thanks again, fellas. :) i might have a few more this after this weekend. my girlfriend is going away so i'm going to play around a bit. :) -shaeff

the friction surface on my fidanza is replaceable. perhaps they changed it? http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Toyota/Supra_86-92/Clutches-Flywheels/Flywheels and: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Toyota/Supra_86-92/Clutches-Flywheels/Flywheel_Inserts...

i've got a fidanza 11lb flywheel, and i love it. faster revs, and i love the way my car decelerates when i let off the gas now. it's a whole different animal. -shaeff

and would look even more sleek and sexy with NSX popups. ;) -shaeff

heh, i have yet to start my NSX headlight conversion, although, i DO have the housings. i just need the time to undertake the project. ;) tony, popups are sexy! the ONLY flush conversion i'd ever do, is the soarer front end conversion. -shaeff

and this is in no way, shape, or for GENERAL supra chat, so it's getting moved to the OT section where Lanky can deal with it. haha. -shaeff

hey will, sorry, i work a night job. 7pm-5am, so if you don't get to me by 5:30 or so, i won't get the PM until i get home from work. i replied to your PM, and in your thread. :) -shaeff

no, that's a very BAD place to put it. the catch can NEEDS to be cooler than the motor for the vapors to actually condense. read the post i linked above. the charcoal canister is right next to the exhaust manifold and turbo setup, which is extremely hot. the can won't function nearly as well...

i run FULL synthetic oil. synthetic doesn't coke in the turbo bearing(s) like dyno oil does, therefore, eliminating the need for a turbo timer. however, i like the idea of letting the car idle down for a few minutes, so i'll probably get one at some point. :) -shaeff

i tried to keep the lines located in cooler places as well, but as long as the can is in a cool place, you should be fine. :) that looks like it'll work well. -shaeff

that looks sick! -shaeff

i have no idea what's going on here... -shaeff