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Toyota Induction hardens their cranks and it's a shallow process, 10 under is about the limit before you get to the silly putty core Dan. Personally if you're in this far it makes sense to bore it and fit a set of Forged pistons just for the extra overhead they provide and that you'll have 6x...

It failed so something is wrong... IncpDet is one explanation that needs to be looked at and steps take to remove/reduce it or this will happen again, I'd also be Zygloing the Ring Lands if you're reusing that piston set.

Welcome Dude good luck with it :)

The engine failed so the "tune" can't be right.... Google "incipient detonation"

Any of the Moly greases will work. LMM is an extreme pressure grease, most machinery or tractor places will stock it.

You usually see the Babbit scared up a LOT if it's debris, might be a flaw but that's not "normal" for Toyota they have really good QC in general, probably happened at sometime in the last 20 years ;) As I said I wouldn't be at all concerned by it! Most are MUCH worse, hopefully this...

No probs, you're welcome! One of the 7M "cam issues" is the factory used a soft Babbit coating on the Cam journals to prevent cold start wear, if your oil filter gets dirty it goes into bypass and circulates crap through the engine, this in turn gets stuck in the babbit material and chews up...

Fingernail will drop into it, fingertip is a better way to "feel" it, as long as it's not raised I'd leave it be. (if it happened after it ran last time (at the shop) it'll be raised, if it's preexisting it'll be low and not an issue)

I wouldn't be concerned at that, most 7M's are MUCH worse.. Feel with a fingertip to make sure it's not higher than the surrounding surface.

"The Smell of Expense" ;)

I used one (1) tube of lube to do my entire engine last build both heads and bottom end, a little goes a long way Jordan :D

I'd have to go down to the shed and pull out a leaflet that I've kept :p

LOL'd

Nah not at all, you can buy Castrol LMM grease which is close enough to ARP's standard Moly Lube that their spec is fine, ARP shipped thier new UltraTq moly with my last set of studs.

You can use a small amount of engine oil and change the Tq spec to what ARP say in the leaflet that came with the studs, tiniest smear on the block end or they will hydraulic in the holes.

Check the TPS adjustment..

Normal MLS MHG's DON'T have "firerings".... they're used on Composite HG's and are usually steel to stop combustion burning away the HG material, A HKS Stopper uses a layer that is folder over a couple of the other layers to keep gases in the hole but as you've found they can be hard to source...

I can see it improving handling quite a bit in a well set up car :) I-6= Lead tipped lawn dart!

I always ran a bit more castor in my Mk3 to settle it down at high speeds, loads up the steering at low speeds but I'm not a girly man so didn't mind it, camber all depended on the tires fitted at the time, bit more with sticky rubber bit less on hards.

So the head was warped and they just machined it flat instead of straightening it first? Might be an idea to bolt it on a block put some cams in and see if they still turn... man some pros need a kick in the Nads.... A "shim" will need the same block prep as a MHG unless you put it on top...