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morons play auto tag. :)

the only code reader you need is the TSRM, a paper clip and your own two eyes. if you can, try to get the car to stall out while it is running like crap. when i had a bad AFM, it wouldnt throw a code until the motor actually stalled.

my mind is blown.

hmm..... beats me then! :drool: i would get a multimeter and make sure you are using the right wire. make sure that the ebrake switch is functioning correctly. maybe its stuck? :dunno: i have a blitz FATT. the older silver one, came in black also. are you sure you are using the...

it is probably restricted though in the muffler which is lousy for flow.

the clutch COULD be slipping due to oil contamination.

has it occured to you that a few people ARENT members over there? dont be lazy and just post your question up in the apropriate section over here. cross posting to different forums sucks but, hey thats how it is. furthermore, your offtopic post over here does nothing to increase the...

the ebrake light stays on cause you are low on brake fluid (your pads are also probably worn down too?). there should be ONE wire that you connect to the ONE wire going to the ebrake button. all you do is shove that wire in the plug for that button. if its not working, you dont have a...

no you ment seat covers!!

sounds like you just have a boost leak. check IC pipes. check codes. i bet youll have a code for turbo pressure.

my friend has an HKS evolution(*havent seen this exhaust offered anywhere). its pretty much the same as the silent hi power, it just says evolution on the can and has that burnt looking tip. its very quiet. actually simann, since you are into rare parts, i am sure he would part with it...

oil in the IC pipes and smoke during boosting could be the turbo! check the bellhousing. i was loosing TONS of oil through the rear main seal into the bellhousing, with NO clutch slipage or any other indication of oil collecting in there.

that sucks.

i think this is my problem. i used the stock disk before and i never got to the point where it started to slip. this is a new clutch disk so i think it should hold up for at least a few hundred miles. i just checked before and the fork does always have pressure on it. will set the clutch...

these are not 7m problems. those are maintanence problems. in other words, lazy, unskilled, incompetant owners! dont blame the car for problems that the owner has caused/allowed to develop!

best option! :icon_bigg

what happens when the clutch disk is installed backwards? i just put in a new clutch along with a new PP and resurfaced flywheel, (along with my rebuild) when i first pressed the pedal it stuck down to the floor, so i bled the system and it seemed functional, however the pedal is almost...

running the wastegate actuator line to the intake manifold (what you were suggesting?) seems to me to be a MUCH better solution than poking a small hole in the line. to me, damaging a part for "performance" is not an option to replace a real modification (even if thats shimming the wastegate)

BAD idea. :thumbdown :thumbdown :thumbdown

its safe. as long as you dont use a FCD it is safe. you will hit fuel cut before you can wreck your motor.