Aside from the fact that it stopped being cool sometime between the first time it was done and the 10,000th riceboy put them on a Honda...
When your "radical" door mod has gotten here:
it's time to let it go...
Reading comprehension FTW:
It's not an electrical problem. Cars don't overheat because the sensor or gauge is bad...
Sounds like your HG/Head is jacked. You are getting compression into the water jacket. Pull the motor.
I've used DFL-1 coated Clevites with great success over the years.
We used the PowerEnterprise F1 Black Metal bearings in quite a few 2JZ's. No failures to date but the 2JZ is so damned bulletproof that might not be saying much.
As far as I know PE doesn't make a 7M bearing.
Excessive resistance in the tail light wiring. This can be:
Corrosion or broken solder joints in the box (you could have a couple of bad ones)
Corrosion or broken contacts in the tail light housings.
Marginally bad bulbs, corrosion in the sockets.
Wiring damage or corrosion.
No matter how...
Could be a failure in your PS rack, but that's pretty much impossible to diagnose over the Internet.
The leak needs to be fixed regardless, and the rack & lines are such a PITA to get to, you are probably better off replacing both the rack and the lines all at once.
This is a common MKIII...
It's starting to sound like a gauge problem, not a temp problem. Are there any signs of the car overheating OTHER than the gauge. Does it seem hot? Does it boil after you turn it off?
That's not 100% true. About 1/2 of the pro race classes require radiators. We had to have one in NDRA Pro Street Tire.
Top Fuel & Funny car are exceptions.
And the alky guys don't really need radiators, cool running bastards...
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