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Hit the junkyards and grab 4>6 of the Steel top reinforcement plates, ready made spacers ;)

"Castrol LMM"

Make sure they magnaflux it and pay close attention to the steam holes in the deck and the main bearing webs at the base of the bores ;)

Just go for the high tolerance and add 2 thou.... you're making this harder than it needs to be ;)

You pretty much get one go to get it right with Shimless before it get's very expensive and time consuming... I made the mistake of having the buckets Cryo treated after being assured that the dimensions don't change... they did with the open end of the buckets flaring out 2 thou... Cryo Guy...

You do realise clearances close down as the engine wears don't you? Most aftermarket Cams run closer to 13 thou, I set my shimless buckets up high end of spec +2 thou and as far as I know it's still running fine today in Crisp's car after many many thousands of KM's.

Well obviously he did need it ;) (maybe applying the Loctite would have jogged him enough to remember the torque wrench)

EVERYTHING 262 on Steel parts, 243 on Aluminium parts, if you have trouble breaking the bond use a heat gun for a minute or so it's not rocket surgery ;) I tend to rev my engines a bit harder for longer than most so maybe this is why they try to revert to kit form after long sessions on the...

Found early on after a long dyno session Loctite on EVERYTHING is a must ;) Amazing how many thing that had been torqued to spec backed out.

Not if the Drain is functioning correctly....

lol off ya go tuck that tail... ;)

Just which seals would that be?? Effectively making the Pressure relief solid.... :nono: Guessing worn pump and bearings or you'd have either popped the o-ring or burst the filter by now..

Welcome! It's fine if you can make 40Psi on a hot idle Fred so the Squirters are open all the time, some after market rods don't have the beam holes, for a road car that spends a bit of time at low RPM or idling it needs some splash, but if you're running stock rods the spray holes in the beams...

^ This, take it to the machinst he can tell you if it'll go +20, Always better to have as much meat in the bores as possible, my brand new 92+ Block had a lot of Core shift compared to my 86.5..

With a scraper unless you have 40+ Psi Hot idle pressure you're running the risk of increased Piston/ring/pin wear...

Should have had slots machined into the flanks of the Big end of the rods to spray onto the cylinder walls on the thrust side of the block.

I tracked a high boost high rpm misfire down to IR's glowplugging, changed to Coppers and it went away but this was an extreme case 28+ Psi 8000+ rpm long pulls.

Nope and it's been a long ass time since I've seen a stock tank so you could be right Dave, but the concept could be made to work with a little thought, the problem most people see is the assembly won't fit in through the hole, doing it my way you just assemble it once it's in, that's where the...

You can use Nutserts without the special tool, just need a long nut with an 8mm bore a couple of washers and a grade 8 6mm bolt :) Pic #1 would be how I'd do it, and yes you assemble it in the tank a bit like building a ship in a bottle, this is how I do mine, a bit fiddly but it's not like you...

You could always cut up another hanger, drill hanger #1 for 2x 6mm nutserts, drill hanger #2 so the holes line up with the nutserts in hanger #1 and bolt then back to back, sort your wiring and hoses, unscrew #2 from #1, disconnect hoses and wiring drop #1 into the hole in the tank, drop #2 in...