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Vacuum leaks: PVC Hoses EGR Valve Intake Manifold Air Intake Chamber Throttle Body ISC Valve Pulling in air between air flow meter and throttle body. Incorrect idle speed Incorrect ignition timing Ignition problems: Ignition Coils Igniter Cam Position Sensor Spark plug wires...

That's (part) of the point of the Lexus AFM. It's 25% larger than stock, and your 550's are 25% larger than stock. Combined they give near factory idle, etc.

If you are going to have a shop build the head, just give it to them assembled. Just remove the cams - this puts all the valved in a "closed" position and helps prevent damaging them.

For some reason these things just crack me up. More: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukAhlxl4hmM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8dl4faCpJE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JF03i7NfIU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExeyrNZwzwQ

Dude that's 100 percent normal... If you are this unfamiliar with motors, tread very lightly.

One thing to think about is why did the bearing go bad? Where is the metal that was chewed up in the process? In otherwords, regardless of what you do, the motor needs to come out, the block needs to be boiled out and you need to rebuild it. Start by reading this...

The SME (Subject Matter Expert) forums (where you originally posted this) are for when you need really expert advice. So my first suggestion would be to save posts in these areas for the really "tough" questions. Your question is kind of generic and dozens of users could answer it. So I'm...

Post how you got the bolt out. I've never found a "good" way.

The 7M-GTE engine uses low impedance injectors. You can run high impedance injectors if you bypass the resistor pack. I strongly suggest you go with RC's. (http://rceng.com) They are reliable, well made, will flow properly, etc. A number of our vendors sell them, or you can search the SM...

Custom built halfshafts from The Driveshaft Shop. They sell them retail now: http://www.driveshaftshop.com/pdetail.php?pid=230 It will do 850 easy. We were running over 40 psi on that turbo.

Especially when lowering. The Tokico TEMS shocks don't have a good history with lowering/high rate springs. They tend to blow seals. Koni 4-Way Adjustable's go for under $100 a piece.

Most people go the other way. TEMS isn't a great suspension system. For less you can get a good set of aftermarket shocks on the car that will last longer and handle better.

We made 1,339 RWHP on that very same turbo. Won the TX2K5 Unlimited class with it too: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1223586&postcount=16 http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0508_sccp_aap_motorsports_toyota_supra_turbo/index.html

Ok, kids, this thread has gone south from the start... To the OP: Consider what you are doing to your car, with the venom removed, you can see there are a lot of people who are against this "mod" for some very good reasons. To the rest: Education beats the pants off of humiliation any day of...

It's almost impossible to visually ID a turbo with any level of accuracy from a photo. With that said, we need to see the compressor side as well as the turbine side if we are going to give you any realistic "educated guesses". From what I can see in your photos, I can tell you only a couple...

We saw a few at the shop. Customers who "tried to do the job themselves and then gave up" kind of stuff. It's generally the end result of: A: using the wrong sized tool. -and- B: Electric impact guns. Combine those two together, and you can fuck up just about anything.

This is how it starts you know. First they give you a "taste" with a free box of chocolate, then it's harder stuff, before you know it you're giving blowjobs behind a dumpster for KitKats and TootsieRolls...

It's legitimate. http://www.unclaimed.org/ is as well.

You need a breaker bar. Most people don't have the arm strength to bust those loose with just a ratchet.

Use the calendar feature: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1155618&postcount=33