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Now those are cool! ;)

You said simplicity and cost effectiveness. What you're doing is major overkill for 550 RWHP. Your injectors are huge for that power goal. Dual intank walbros will do the job. Use the stock feed & return, add one additional line to feed the other end of the rail. Run clean power back there...

What you describe is a complete meltdown. There may be little/nothing left of that engine that is salvageable. If you cooked it that bad, your cylinder head need to be checked for hardness as you may have annealed the aluminum head. You've likely spun several bearings, your crank & rods all need...

Dude, do some research. There are so many piggyback fuel controllers available for the MKIII that's it's not even funny. Between stock and standalone you have a ton of options. Here are some of them (with ballpark prices): ManufacturerModelBallpark PriceAEMFuel/Ignition Controller$340...

While the handjob one may be funny, this one had me and Theresa actually laughing so hard that it hurt: (I shouldn't need to say it, but this is insanely not safe for work.) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcnXpOygKGI

The House Economic Recovery Bill HR 1. - the most depressing 647 pages I've ever read...

Complete list of all TRD Items still available for the MKIII that I am aware of: Part No.|Description PTR04-12108-02|TRD Oil Cap PTR43-00080|TRD High Flow Oil Filter PTR04-00000-01|TRD Radiator Cap, 18.5 psi PTR04-00000-02|TRD Radiator Cap, 21.3 psi PTR04-00086|TRD Limited Slip Differential

Agh! My bad guys - I didn't realize this was a JZ thread. Disregard - my info was for the 7M-GTE. Sorry. :(

I'm running about 380 RWHP on my daily driver (1990 Turbo) and it's damned reliable...

The IRS and taxes. They love to harass me...

He is going to love that OS Twin Plate. The only clutch I've ever had that was better is my RPS Triple Carbon. If you need any help Jeff, let me know. You know how many of these things I've built. If you want to sell the 97+ tails, or any of the other "stock bits" (i.e. - ECU, etc.) let me...

I've owned several MKIII Supras since 1990. Properly maintained, they are damned near free to operate other than putting fuel in them. Perhaps it's just not the car for you.

Tissimo, read the TSRM. 5.5 - 7.5 psi (Manual Trans) 4.8 - 6.0 psi (Auto Trans) http://www.supracentral.com/foundation/tsrm/turbocharger-system/ Free flowing exhaust, etc will raise it somewhat.

Subtle hint: Not so subtle hint:

Could be a leaky wastegate diaphram, or the small hose that connects the wastegate to the turbo. Factory boost is 6-7~ psi. What you are seeing is a lot of boost, even for a cold day. Is the wastegate shimmed? What do you get in "warm" weather?

Remember that Supra .272 cams are designed for use with forced induction. There is a large difference between forced induction valve timing and N/A valve timing. Most domestic articles will focus on N/A performance, which is very different.

It's not unusual to hit cut when it's cold if you are already close. Denser air means you need more fuel. How much boost are you running? If you're running stock boost, you likely have a small boost leak.

272 cams cause poor idle, and bad off idle torque and throttle response, lower fuel economy, and poor low speed efficiency. Overall they lower driveability, it's a trade off - peak horsepower is what you get in exchange for this. Your stated horsepower goals mean you're going to loose all that...

Your mother?

#6 tends to run hot, it's not unusual. When coolant is exposed to exhaust gas it becomes acidic and creates lots of rust. If the motor was run with a BHG between compression and the water jacket (most common 7M failure mode), it may have been that. Did the motor sit for a long time...