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I have one. Only if you want to make your car unique and get some niftly JDM only parts. Yes but only a tiny bit. MK3 has good representation as well. Just don't plan on reading a word of it. It is entirely in Japanese besides chassis codes and HP numbers. Still cool to look at though, and...

IIRC EGTs go up if you are rich or lean and cool down at a good combination. I'm not 100% on that but thats what I remember reading for some reason. However, do you not trust your wideband? I would tune with that pretty much solely since tuning EGRs is kind of like an oldschool replacement for...

Pretty sweet man...

Its expensive and very out dated. If you wanted to do something like speed density (which is a good idea if you're willing to set it up properly) the MAFT Pro is the only worth while solution.

I can definitly understand where you are coming from Simple. But on the MKIV Toyota used a front facing manifold from the factory. So I cannot see how it could adversely effect very much if at all for them to put it on stock. Numbers: (from sethron71 and GrimJack)

Okay, I went out (since I did find a way to test without the tool you spoke of Nick, it was in the TSRM) and started to check the voltage at the battery at idle at least (and the car was fully up to temp about an hour ago) since I only had myself to test. What I came up with was 13.95V with...

Well, the battery I have now replaced a brand new optima red top that was about 4 months old. The grounding thing I don't really know what I should be checking for all I can say for sure is that I just replaced the battery cable with a new OEM one about a month or so ago. How should I check the...

Hey guys, for quite a while now (before I got my tiny battery, so thats not it) I have noticed that at idle, my electrical system seems extremely weak. Symptoms: idling with headlights on, apply brakes = entire car dims idling with healights on brakes and reverse enguage = entire car dims...

hmm... no offence but umm... your car is a bit ghetto...

Bang for the buck might be the TEIN SS. Pretty agressive spring rates I believe probably make them handle very well.

Good condition ones especially. I found mine in very very good condition by posting a WTB thread here and on SF. Some people don't post theirs and only go for the WTBs so I'd suggest that for best results. Make sure you're fairly specific on what it has to be. (for you it HAS to be 90-92 and auto)

Unless it leaks a pretty significant amount of oil and it gets starved...

YOU must be kidding. Although the Blitz is definitly pretty loud it is far from ricey! It has got to be one of the most throaty "I'm gonna tear you a new one" exhausts I've ever heard. Just because it is loud does not mean its ricey. On the topic of which exhaust should you get, obviously I...

I've heard some were okay like Ideal, and then 90% of others lasted less then 3000 miles it seems. So, it depends greatly on how heavy your foot is, and also how good the core was to begin with.

I agree, go for the speed source one.

Generally offset has nothing to do with the lip of the wheel. To get offset its just how thick the center of the wheel is where it bolts to the hub. The way the wheel looks (for example 5zigen FNO1RC) is more dependent on the width then the offset.

That few people actually do this kind of stuff huh?

I think that part is a main-like power lead to the whole EFI system. So you should definitly look into a way to get that fixed.

Way to rain on his parade... jeez. This is a total guess but to be good and safe... 12 lbs is probably good on a CT.