If I translated your numbers correctly (please use courier font next time), you are running horribly rich
15mph A/F=10.7 and 25mph A/F=11.1
Any emission tech worth his salt can you help you diagnose why.
I put the externally amplified version of that headunit 16815 in mine last year. Made an adapter to connect to the original Supra amp under the seat, which I rebuilt. Replaced the power transistors and all electrolytic caps. Pretty much any Toyota HU up to 2002 will fit in the Supra. Mine was...
The mpg reading will be all over the place for the first few miles after a reset, then it settles down. Best way to check calibration is to fillup and reset the consumption number, drive until close to empty and fillup again at the exact same pump. The number of gallons to refill used should...
JJ no doubt uses a Turbomolecular vacuum pump :biglaugh:. The STP-iX455 is nice!
Seriously, a Robinair 15300 is good enough, and not very expensive. 15600 would be even better for a little more cash.
Anodized coatings have a much lower thermal conductivity and coefficient of linear expansion than aluminium. As a result, the coating will crack from thermal stress if exposed to temperatures above 80 °C. The coating can crack, but it will not peel.
From: Edwards, Joseph (1997). Coating and...
If I remember correctly the wastegate actuator rod is held on with a small c-clip. Getting that back on is going to be pretty hard with the turbo on the car.
The line pressure cable controls the fluid pressure out of the transmission pump. That pressure is used to actuate the various clutches and bands, as well as push fluid around to lubricate and cool the various parts.
The more power you are putting through the transmission, the tighter you...
There are two problems here, and I will go on record as saying they are unrelated.
The surging you speak of, my car does that. Has done it since new, when it was under warranty long long ago, and still does it today. When I lived in NJ it would always do it coasting into the toll booths on the...
So let me get this straight, based on the informative pictures I need to install a hose that dumps the coolant out the side of the engine bay onto the ground and this will solve the chronic cooling problems with the 7M, and for extra reliability add ten cheap worm clamps and a plastic prestone...
FYI, although I think the OP was talking about the black gauge face itself, the clear plastic gauge cover is still available from Toyota and is cheap. I paid ~$20 for a new one.
Your only issue with the first test was high NOx, almost certainly from an EGR problem. Mixture was spot on (14.7:1).
Since they then proceeded to throw the kitchen sink at it, I would check all the items replaced for assembly errors. High idle could easily be from a misplaced or missing vac...
Okay, good. By the way, are you saying it idles at only 100-200rpm? Does it rev, can it be driven?
If the engine runs well enough to drive, you should try to figure out the A/F ratio. Do you have any means to measure A/F, or a gas analyzer?
If not, you could warm it up until its in closed...
Some have solved this problem by adding yet another relay to the starting circuit, as if there aren't enough already.
I would agree that the NSS is worth looking into, as is the starter relay in the right kick panel.
Less likely, but still possible, would be the theft deterrent computer acting...
Besides cleaning the injectors, you might want to replace the filter and blow out the fuel rail and lines. You have to wonder what would cause that much goo to form on the tank walls.
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