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In addition to what you mentioned, check the nuts holding the lower window garnish on. Yes, also check the wiper grommet, it is cheap. Antenna can leak too.

Are you sure the uppers are bad? Usually the lowers are the ones that fail as they support the full weight of the car. The uppers only locate the carrier.

Your head gasket probably looks like this. It likely has a small leak between cylinder and coolant passages. As you drive, gasses leak into the coolant passage on the affected cylinder power stroke and the coolant pressure spikes, and bubbles form that hinder coolant flow. The weakest link...

Snap rings for the half shafts? I would get new ones. Are you pulling the diff out to do this work? If you do it on the car, you will need to make a very short slide hammer to pull out the half shafts because the carriers gets in the way of a long one. Off the car this is obviously a non-issue.

To give you an idea for some of the tricks in the ECU, here is a piece of seemingly incomprehensible code for reading in data from Port C (IDL, DFG/LP, TE1, HT, AC, STA, OX1 and IGSW). Port C is address $28h, and the processed data is stored in RAM variable $4Fh. ROM:F6CA ld...

The McMaster washers are only needed if you replace the seal and it still leaks, or if you notice a detectable groove in the halfshaft. You buy them direct from Mcmaster-Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/

There is also another crucial area it impacts that I forgot to mention, which is injector duration. To fire an injector bank, the ECU computes the duration in microseconds and loads a timer interrupt counter. The timer clock is supposed to be exactly 1 us, so that the computed duration...

Read this too before you start.... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41543

Good luck with this. The following sensors are sensitive to the internal ECU timebase: AFM, vehicle speed, RPM, although not obvious, also all A/D sensors (water temp, air temp, voltage, TPS, oil pres, internal reference) will be scaled due to the way data is transferred internally from...

You can still buy the Boston speakers for $15 a pair at Electro Mavin. http://www.mavin.com/index.php/products/boston-acoustics-4-12-inch-woofer-pr-high-output-96-db-spl

It should only be in torsion if you are twisting it, that is pulling on one link and pushing on the other as happens when the body rolls on a turn. Preloading it by shortening one link and lengthening the other would cause the body to list left or right when stationary, and make for some...

In front of #1 per below...

Following up on the FX35 HIDs... In the attached photo of some 07 FX35 HIDs, the wiring shown does not look hi-voltage. Are these missing parts... like maybe the bulb and ballast? Never mind... I think I've answered my own questions with this picture...

I used one 4.5 x 0.045 cutoff wheel per bolt. Even then, afterwards it was maybe an 1/8" smaller in diameter than a new one. What sort of wheels are you guys using that you need two per bolt! And yes, you cut on the inside of the bracket.

If JJ's tool is too expensive for you, these will help. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33202 I prefer the 16" 45deg version, but they don't seem to sell it anymore.

Normally I would say the ECU is unlikely to be the problem, but in this case it cannot be ruled out. The 87-88 Turbo MTM ECUs were different from the factory, but I believe are interchangeable. Part numbers 89661-14130 and 89661-14131 are interchangeable for sure. For example, if you bought a...

As an experiment I took one of my mangled bushings once i had it off the car, supported it well and tried to drive the bolt out with a hammer and drift. No way, didn't budge at all. This car spent most of its life in SoCal, I'd hate to see one that had been through some real winters!

No problem at all.

While they are fresh in my mind, some comments on replacing the lower control arm cam bolts that have seized in the bushings. First, Comadreha's guide covers just about everything you need to know. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84302 In the guide he says that it is...

The AFM can be cleaned, but it takes a solvent (CFC) that isn't readily available these days. Other stuff attacks and ruins the optics.