Possibly. At this point I would say the ECU isn't your problem, frying ECU's is just a symptom of a bigger problem. Start checking your wiring, something could be shorted and sending too much current through the ECU.
-AM3
I know that, I was just curious as to its purpose/how it works. I have the line bypasssing it and running directly to the canister, so everything should work fine, it will just run a little richer if anything. And According to an earlier post, only the time the car is warming up is affected.
-AM3
Thanks for all the info guys. I do intend to replace mine (if I keep the car), I just have other issues to address first. I currently have the line routed directly to the canister with the BVSV bypassed. I'm not one of those crusaders for a clean engine bay. The car actually didn't have EGR when...
White smoke is coolant. Could be a turbo, headgasket, or a leaking water pump, among other things. Have you tried pressure testing the cooling system?
EDIT: If its causing it to misfire/die, it sounds like a BHG. That is assuming its burning coolant. But you say it only does it sometimes, so...
I've heard from several people that you can lift the motor up after unbolting the trans and mounts and it will clear, its just a PITA. I don't know, but dropping the subframe can't be much better. Ideally, I've heard that pulling the motor is the best route to go for the pan gasket.
-AM3
How exactly does the BVSV work? I've noticed some guys remove theirs. Is this just to clean up the engine bay or is there a legitimate reasson for removal? The vac ports are broken on mine, so I currently have the line that goes to the BVSV hooked directly to the charcoal canister. I figure if...
The one on the hood. I'm referring to the really small pipe that's on the front of the motor. The lower end of that is going directly into my intake. According the the vacuum diagram there is something called an air control valve, basically, I want to know where its at what it does. Thanks.
-AM3
I'm pretty sure I have all the vacuum lines right except for one. On the diagram, it says "to air control valve" but before I removed it, went down the pipe across the front of the engine and to the intake from there. Is this correct? Or is there something else it should go to?
Second thing I...
I figure, the motor was just rebuilt and the rest of the cooling system was empty, so if I'm going to change to a different coolant, now is the time to do so. It says an Ethylene Glycol coolant in the owners manual, but I've heard of some people running Toyota Red. Is that the best route to go...
I used Permatex. My kit had a cork gasket, but I had heard bad things about them and seeing as its a PITA to fix a pan gasket leak, I wanted to make sure it worked. I shall see if it leaks soon...as in about 3 hours from now.
-AM3
It would be helpful if I could zoom in and it gave some description. Thanks anyways. There are 5 wires on the engine harness, with little eye hooks, and it looks like they bolt to the intake manifold. The ground strap coming from the harness looks like it bolts to the engine block to trans...
In the process of swapping my motor and piecing together the hackjob heap I purchased, I have 3 grounds that I need help figuring out where they go.
The first one is the negative battery lead (not the end that attaches to the battery for all you smartasses out there, lol)
Second is the...
Check the cold start injector time switch. It is located on top of the T-stat housing, and has 2 wires going to its connector. Resistance should be as follows:
<59* F.............25-50 ohms
60-84* F..........51-59 ohms
>85* F.............60-85 ohms
-AM3
Double check that, but I doubt that. It runs once he can get it started. So I was already doubting fuel pressure as well, but always good to check.
So far we know:
It is getting too much fuel
Fuel pressure is good
Injectors most likely are not leaking
It is not an ECT sensor related issue...
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