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^^^ had the same problem just a few days ago, and i spayed pb-blaster, and now its all set, and locks easy and fast.

lmao this made me laugh hard, lol haha this is too funny, this has to be a joke.

well like the title says, im in need of a new seal for the extension housing of the tranny, my seal is no good, and leaking out a lot of fluid, and i noticed when i took my exhaust off and want to replace it fast, just wondering if any one would know the part number for the gasket from toyota...

this happen to me, i had my a/c on going 90 mph and next thing i know i was 3/4 away from red so i shut the car off let it cruise untill i pulled over, and spitting antifreeze out of the bid cage box, it was because there was a bit of air in the radiator, i let all the air out and now its not...

LMAO^^^ sounds good

i hope you didnt pay for that? i would go back and ask for my money back, but i hope you get it fixed soon, wouldnt want to see it go down the drain for nothing

i get the same problem, once i sit at a red light for a few min, it warms up, but if i take back roads with steady 40-50mph or the hgihway its super cold, but now i dont have to worry any more since the a/c compressor fried up on me, started to burn up and shot rubber out the clutch and into my fan.

anything new with any one here from MA? im almost done with my body work, gonna have it primer soon, i have a lot of dents, and barely no rust on the car. also any one from here driving a black MK4 on 146 heading to worcester, may be coming from sutton or R.I? plates where on the back window.

ok, put a wire from +B straight to the positive of the battery and then the CEL should turn on and then you should be able to start the car. if your CEL is not on its cause your +B is not getting power, thats why most of the people ask for this, and even my car has the same problem

well they are taking new people, why not some one from here take the spot?

i had the same problem, what i did was i took a 7.5 fuse and wired it to the battery and then to the +B, but if you dont have a good working battery it will kill the battery, but that was just for temporary.

i turned my a/c on today again to try it out, and still no problem, it gets cold, and the temps stayed at operation level. just weird how this becomes a problem. but then i did read about converting that you need to buy a couple of adapters and sensors so that the pump and other parts can last...

im guessing the rack, or maybe what you said about the clips. but when the car just sits and when you let it warm up, will it do it? or when you drive the car and stop to turn, is that when it makes that noise? if you dont drive the car and let it warm up then i think its the rack, power...

what about when the engine is warm? you will get different readings at warm and cold.

what about a compression test?

i had the same problem, i was on the highway, i had to pass this guy around 90mph with the a/c, and when i looked at my temp it started to clime up slowly so i turn the a/c and still kept going up, so i pulled over, i let the car cool for 10 min, and my resivour was shaking and pissing out...

valve stem seals on the valves are bad?

yea cause on my old alt, it would charge and then fail on me, and the battery light and the brake light will turn on at the same time, but this alternator, doesn't do that but goes to 12v. i drove around today and went up to 14.5 where it should be

well i had to replace my alternator since it failed on me couple of times, so i replaced it with a new one. now my turbo timer keeps saying that im getting 11v at certain times and then it can be find at only 14.0 or sometimes 14.2, but then my brake like nor my battery light turns on when it...

love the sound and the turbo, was laughing when you got blocked behind the car, would have loved to hear it ripping through the gear