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Mark, glad to hear that you are finaly getting the motor back or did today. I think that I have a oil feed tube and bolt back at the other house. I will check and see tomorrow. If so, its yours. I will give you a call tomorrow and let you know either way. Sorry, no driveshaft bolts for ya...

N/A is nice, but like elhsupra stated, the aftermarket support is not really there (yet, anyways) and being a FE classification, big HP N/A's hard and expensive to do. I agree with your comment about using the 7M for turbo/power, but I also have also always been one to be different. You can look...

I actually in the process of do a 1uz swap in my car at the moment. Its not really difficult to do as long as you have some basic fabrication skills. Once the motor is in and running, then I will be figuring out what kind of room and where to install a pair of turbos on the engine bay...

Probably piston slap. Piston slap can tend to sound like a rod knock. If you have the motor apart, check the piston to wall clearances. Some scoring is normal on piston skirts. How do the cylinder walls look?

No, it was in Copher's (LQK) in tampa. Im curious as to how much money was dumped into it. For the amount of money to get the firewall section, steering rack, steering colum, dash underbrace, all the HVAC equipment, ect., they probably could have just inported a complete car with no motor...

yeah, its a Q45 TB, just with Traction control.

Found this today while doing a little salvage yard searching. In the first 2 pics, notice the black and white 2tone paint. The 3rd pic shows what is going on here. Why would you do this?????????????????????????

yeah, but if you disconnect it, you have to be sure to ground the start disable wire from the plug. It is pin 13 and is a blue with orange strip wire. if that is not grounded, the car will not start. that is how the alarm disables the starter if it is triggered. it takes away the ground...

Ian, sorry I forgot (.68 not .63).... Anyways, thanks for the info about the use of LP. I figured that it would be the same, but wanted to make sure.

if you really wanted to do this, the head light that are used in Pontiac's, Olds's, and Chevy's like MDC said. I cant recall the other GM cars that had them, but I do know if you look for the head lights for a (we'll say) 95 camaro, you will find the one's could be used for what you are looking...

Get a breaker bar or something and smack the side of the started and see if it starts or atleast turns over. It doesn't take a hard hit and a typical 1/2" breaker bar will allow you to reach down from the top and hit the side of the starter. if so the the solinoid on the starts is going out. A...

Being that both gears that make up 5 (main shaft and counter shaft) are removable, it could be done by having custom ones made, but nothing off the shelf or atleast that I am aware of. All toyota tranies that I know of are in the range or .7's and .8's including the 6th gear in the getrag V160's...

Being that both gears that make up 5 (main shaft and counter shaft) are removable, it could be done by having custom ones made, but nothing off the shelf or atleast that I am aware of. All toyota tranies that I know of are in the range or .7's and .8's including the 6th gear in the getrag V160's...

also this may help, inj #1 will have a white w/ blue tracer and a black w/ orange tracer wires from the harness where as #2 will be white w/ red and black w/ orange

I dont remeber which one is first but I think gray. They should be comming out of the harness in order, so just use the one that comes from the harness closest to the alt as for the first inj and each one thereafter in sequence back towards the firewall.

Speeking of piping, the OEM piping is a pretty major issue in itself and i'd change that before the IC. Alot of the lose in the system is from the piping itself. edit: Added info below. Example of this is when I originaly converted to na-t. With the turbo and the IC being stock and using...

With that said, then yeah my seguestion is to upgrade. edit: correction, I read it wrong, and agree with Grim. Stock one should be fine.

yes, compressor size is a big key factor in it. as for electrics, some of those are also just as good. I have a have a 1/2" drive dewalt electric impact that just picked up and I used it last week to remove the crank bolt form a lexus 1uz that I am building and its torqued the same as the...

it really depends on the the use of the car and the power that you are trying to get. If using it for daily drive without much over stock power and without a lot of long sustained boost runs then no, an upgrade is not necessary, but is not really a bad idea either. The stock IC is not really...

any decent 1/2 inpact should have atleast 300ftlbs in reverse. The key is to not hold the trigger on constantly. inpacts are only effect on the first hit. pull the trigger as if you were trying to unload the clip from a semi-auto hand gun. Another thing that helps is to smack the bolt...