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http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80267&highlight=egr+delete might be of interest, i also was gonna take of my egr till i read this. i dont think bad gas itself would plug a filter.

plugs out, thats a good idea. thanks for all.. i only got stock oil pressure gauge, will i actually see the pressure raise on it? do you have a aftermarket gauge??

i mean initial- since my cooler filter thermostat and cooler, are gonna dry, prolly will fill my filter though. every day starting not to concerned with it as of now. so you have a accumulator how do you release the pressure with no valve??

i'll bet your problem is that you took off your egr- since your not running a jdm ecu. theres a HUGE post on it here somwhere-search it. and to check codes you jumper e1 and te1 i belive-search it.

yah there not kiddin its tight even with the stock manifol, heres a pic if it helps

ahh yes i gotcha, i will be doing the same. so what do you think of dry starts ij??

my recomendations;) http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Canton_Oil_Cooler_Sandwich_Adapters_-_Universal&form_prod_id=953,675_5685&action=product

no no i wasn't trying to knock your method by any means if you've done it for that long it must be tried and true. i just thought being that thick it would hang up in the filter and does grease bond with oil??

ok thats what i was thinkin, but wow that seems really thick i use this stuff for everything you can imagine-assembly that is, odds are i will pack my pump with it http://www.lubriplate.com/products/greases/no-105-motor-assembly-grease.html

as you can see in the pics, its simply bolted in 2 spots, the one with the oil filter in the pic is the passenge side. its hard to get good pics of the oil cooler, but thats her.

well i got my pump and shimmed it 4mm just a tad over. my next question is do i have to do anything to the pump or just install it dry? i have heard of some people packing the pump with assembly lube(lubriplate) second off does anyone here do dry starts?(after a rebuild or oil change even) ie...

if your alternator was over charging your batter would get hot(dont smoke around it then lol) you also need a amp clamp to properly check it my gauge reads around the same. the voltmeter gauge is reading alternator output voltage not battery. maybe you just got a bad battery..it happens.

yah i'm using silicone for my power steering relocation. as long as its silicone i've been told it'll be fine, but why would oil get on your heater hose?!? i'm assuming you mean "90 degree bends" right what do you mean

yah i know i meant with the cork gasket(which i bought before reading my manual) most of us use it at work when we got cork.

jdub,jetjock,adjuster thank you all i just reread most of the posts-mainly you three i will be tapping a hole in the pipe that i'll be connecting my air filter too-pre turbo of course. i understand now how the tb port works under boost and vacum. but now how does your heater control...

thats what i was figguring the eight pages or reading prolly saved my front or rear seals:) so could i just cap the tb port, and run the valve cover vents to atmosphere-i know its not good for the enviroment-but its not my daily driver

i see. but i'm not using a accordian hose, just a filter off my turbo since i'm going speed density with the maft pro, but if it does pressurize even a small bit i cant just route the two vents off the valve covers directly to the tb then right?

it seems like that will give it just enough room, i'll let you know

tell me if you notice anything

has anyone used "high - tac"? might go with loctite "instant gasket" but i dunno... its about 0 degrees C ;)