For the turbo guy: Search spark plug gap in the GTE section. Should bring up a ton of threads about making the gap smaller, although I believe most were running higher boost.
For the OP: Be sure all your plug wires are making good contact on both ends, and that there isn't any corrosion on...
Tps is a possible cause for the 51. If you have a volt meter these are the readings you should test for. Leave the sensor on the t.b., and the harness plugged in. With key on engine off, test through the back of the plug. E2 is your ground, and you should test with your ground lead there...
From what is available, go with the OBX. I've had mine for at least 3 years, with no issues. Still nice gold color, and shiny. No need to worry about rust or coatings(other than for heat related issues) with stainless, and the tubes are mandrel bent, wich has a smoother flow.
I think it's...
AJ: Yeah, she keeps me busy :)
OP: As I said, there are members here in your area. You might post for help in the regional section. At least find someone who has an understanding of what needs to be done. Doing it wrong will double your cost, and triple your frustration.
I believe you can bypass the clutch switch with a jumper instead of the push button.
As far as the fuel system bleeding down over night, I wouldn't worry about it much. The fpr only regulates fuel pressure with the engine running. The only way it would effect pressure bleed off after you've...
Clunking sound in sharp turns is probably a lower ball joint. Alignment/mechanic shop can check it for you, and it's fairly simple to replace. Could also be any of the control arm bushings, but they're nowhere near as easy to replace.
wow...
Apparently, you have no idea what you're doing. My best piece of advice to you is put everything you took off in the hatch, and tow or trailer your car to a mechanic. I'm not trying to be cruel or malicious. You will save a lot of time, money, and aggravation this way. There are a...
There are 4 specific points of each valve cover that require the application of some sort of silicone sealant. A drop of locktite on the valve cover bolts will keep them from loosening up.
Just outta curiosity, did you apply fipg under the head gasket where the block and lower back timing...
Has to be denatured(rubbing alcohol is mostly water). Would be careful doing this, as well. Too much will actually do more damage. I have used this in the past with a few cars, and it helped, but not always.
I'd drop that exhaust at the cat, and see if the cat has been gutted. Won't...
Wouldn't hurt to check the bearings. They usually go first when run without a sufficient amount of oil. Would start with the pinion bearings, as they're the furthest forward, and get the least amount of oil.
I'd also take a close look at all the wheel bearings, since your hearing your noise...
It shouldn't take more than 1/2 an hour to tighten the bolts. Iirc, when I did mine I actually pulled the cooler out, cleaned everything up, and put it back together in the car in about an hour. I have small hands, and it was still a tight fit getting back there to start the bolts.
It's entirely possible to tighten the bolts without jacking up the trans, or anything else. You need a 1/4" ratchet, and a short 10mm socket. You might have to grind the socket down a bit to get back there, but it will work. I don't remember if there was 6 or 8 bolts.
The one from 935 is money well spent. You could probably make one a little cheaper, but his is a plug and play part. I made mine out of inner cooler tubing. Used one straight, and one 45 deg., iirc
jumper fp to b+ in the diag. box with the key on. Turns the Fuel Pump on without the engine running. More than likely either banjo bolt seals on the cold start injector, or down on the fuel rail. Could be a poorly seated injector to fuel rail seal as well.
OP: For removing and replacing the springs, here's some tools to make the job much easier.
Valve tool with head on
valve tool head off
Not really a job I would recommend for someone inexperienced and without supervision. You really should seek professional help. They have the right...
Clean everything thoroughly(brakekleen works good), and get some dye to put in the oil(any autoparts will have engine oil dye). Do your normal driving, and check to see where the leak is. The dye is usually a nice florescent green, and will leave a nice trail.
Might check your fuel filter. It gets plugged up enough, you won't get enough fuel. Air filter as well, but it would have to be REALLY bad. K&N filters that don't get cleaned are bad about that...
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