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I give this thread < 5 seconds of life as soon as a mod sees it...

It says in the TSRM that they should spin fairly easily side to side when you've got them in the fuel rail, so make sure that's true. If not, pull them, inspect the O rings, reseat them with some sort of lubricant and try again. Make sure you don't have any foreign material where the injectors...

Did the subframe on mine and had that same problem :(

It's always nice to have some oil or assembly lube in the cam journals. Check the plug gap just to make sure. NGK's pretty good at gapping things properly though if it's a car specific plug you bought. Make sure your camshaft oil seals are in properly, not crooked or anything.

My thoughts too...you're going backwards :P

That is wicked awesome! Sad to think the guy inside probably stood on the corner of the road for the dealership getting paid slightly above minimum wage :P

No Aaron here either, but w/e. Hopefully Aaron feels thanked? Whatever, we're done here. Nothing wrong with going 0.040" over stock, just always keep in mind there's a limited amount of material between each cylinder ;)

If it's not blinking at all the connection isn't good on your jumper. It's gonna blink, regarless if you have codes or not if you're jumpering it properly ;). It should be pretty clear what the flashes are if it does have a code. Let it go for a good 15 seconds or so just to make sure you're...

I'd still double check and make sure you're getting propper pressure to rule that out diagnostically. It's kind of curious that you're getting oil in all of your cylinders...were you blowing blue smoke out the back on your drive? Is your PCV hooked up properly? Did you check the condition...

Put the decimal in the right place. "Twenty over" is 0.020" NOT 0.20". 0.20" would be ludicrous and impossible and "two hundred over". 0.020" = ~0.5mm (0.508mm). The less you need to take away the better. Go to far and you end up setting your self up for sleaving etc with a future rebuild...

Good to hear it didn't take anything else with it. I was supposed to be there that night too :(

I paid about that much from Toyota IIRC about a year and a bit ago. Dunno if that helps or not...

Up to the empty connection to the left of L-80 and the EGR VSV?

As long as everything is in spec, it will all work out fine. Readjusting shims can be a pain though. Measure your shims with a caliper, assemble, do your clearance measurements, and theoretically you should still have the proper shims assuming it was in spec before the tear down.

Quick question...the L-260 line (off the EGR Modulator), does that just open to air? Just looks like that in the diagram.

PM'd

My recent bill for my new head swap... Valve Grind - $345 Resurface for Metal Head gasket - $85 Valve Adjustments, Polish Cams, Machine Valve Shims, Machine buckets (for comp cams springs) - 3 hours @ General Labour rate of $82/hr ($246) Not too terrible in my opinion. I did my own porting...

Will keep that in mind. Above all else I want to make sure they're routed properly. As long as I stick those diagrams I'm guessing/hoping I won't have any issues.

Wideband 02 sensor There's probably more, my brain is just fried from work today.

Think those grounds are off the starter? I do remember pulling SOMETHING off the bottom of the starter that had a 10mm or 12mm nut on it...but I figured that might have been the main line from the batter...I dunno. Thanks for the diagram, thanks a ton for the vacuum diagram, that will help me...