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The thing about replacing ball joints is that you have to buy the whole upper arm. It's all one piece. But I think the Beech upper arm's ball joint can be replaced. I've seen a lot of custom control arms like that and I think it is a Chrysler ball joint or something. But I believe that the Beech...

Ask Mitt Romney

Unless the previous owner of that 89 replaced all the parts, all that stuff on there is over 20 years old! But replacing control arm bushings would be smart. Get some Energy Suspension bushings kit. And you will probably have to cut out the alignment bolts on the lower control arm. So you will...

Those big hex plugs in the center spark plug valley. Some of them seal coolant/oil. You can just get some o-rings and put them in to replace the oem 3rd valve cover piece. Also oil can leak out the sides of the valve covers.

That sounds like a wastegate problem to me. Maybe it is stuck. Or a vacuum line on it is leaking.

Hmmm ya. But it would mean that I would run my coilovers at highest ride height instead of lowest ride height. But ya I see your point about some people with only coils ending up way too low.

And modified by raising the hub center if possible. It seems like it would be worth it because you wouldn't have to lower via springs/shocks as much. The car would be lower, the ride would stay the same. Pretty sure it would be better for the geometry too because the upper control arms would not...

I had to cut my bolts out. And then I got all new ones from Driftmotion.

Sounds like it's a mess right now lol. Once you get it cleaned up then check it out. It could be many things such as: oil pan seal, turbo drain line, oil cooler lines, front main seal, rear main seal, the seal that is supposed to be done when doing the headgasket (at the front of the engine)...

Either that or get a whole new subframe, which is probably what a stupid run-of-the-mill shop like les shwab would suggest. With my car I just bent the ear things back into place. Welding new metal on would be easy. Not a hard piece of metal to duplicate.

I don't know if I could ever afford these. Some Xecessive parts appear to be very expensive. But I do want more steering angle. And if they had some drop to them it would be cool. Also I'm happy that it would be closer than California, where most parts must come from for my car. It would save me...

It would be hella cheap to make your own motor mounts and would save you money. As long as you are capable to make some don't waste your money man.

Check for shaft play. Pull it in and out and side to side. Follow tsrm procedures.

You might want an aggressive alignment. And since you are lowered you might need adjustable suspension bits at least in the rear.. Not sure what's good but I see A1 and BattleVersion etc.

You don't need a hydraulic handbrake. Just make sure your cable e brake is working good. It's good that you replaced the old spring and shocks. Tires. You will need many many tires.

The whiteline bars come with a few adjustment holes I think. During my last drift event this season I had adjusted my stock sway bars. I just put in the driftmotion sway bar end links to make the sway bar sit flat. It wasn't sitting flat because I had lowered my car. When I got to try it on the...

An easy way to test it is take the t stat out. Put it in a pot of water. Turn on stove and heat. If it doesn't crack open after heating it up a lot then you know it's bad.

I removed my charcoal can. And the whole metal line leading back to the gas tank. Then I routed the rubber vent hose coming off the gas tank so that it would be higher than the tank. I got a differential breather from a Toyota pickup and shoved it into the end of the hose. It seems to me that...

Ah. I don't care about looks. It's good to know that it will work. I'm saving up for the swap right now.

They are pretty expensive to operate. It's good though because you can upgrade stuff and fix it at the same time if you do it right. There is a light at the end of the tunnel. As in, after all the work you put in, it will be an awesome fast car.