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Well I'm completely befuddled, confused and defeated. 1. The starter tests good on the automated testers at the parts stores. Two stores said it throws and spins just like it should. 2. Voltage drop across the large 12V cable to the starter is lower than 1mV. My Fluke DMM reads 0.000V...

I applied 12V to the solenoid terminal to see that the pinion would extend outward and it did. I did not perform any further testing. I'm honestly not sure what the following instructions are supposed to be telling you to do so I did not perform these tests...

Good suggestion, Nick. I'll check. The battery cable is a new custom fit one I made from a generic cable from Autozone. I'll measure it to be sure. I did look at the flywheel and it seemed fine. No odd wear I could see. I'll try to snake my arm down there to grab since video of it. Sent from...

Well... nothing changed. Video below. Same awful whir/grind and no cranking whatsoever. Battery voltage is shown in the video. It seems stable enough starting at 12.75 and dropping to a little more than 11 during cranking. At this point I just think the starter is faulty. I'm perplexed how...

Awesome, thanks Jeff! I can turn the crank by hand, yes. Just verified it. Later tonight I should have time to get the starter back in and see if it will engage correctly with a full charge. I'll update with a (hopefully more eventful) video. Thanks guys.

Damn, you're right. Not sure why I had 12V or higher in my mind as acceptable. Hmm... I'll get my charger on the battery and perhaps try again after it's charged back up to 12.6 or higher. It would be nice if this was as simple as insufficient power...

Installed a fresh Reman Starter from Denso. Here's the chain of events along with video evidence: 1. First Crank: Thud. Bendix did not completely throw or did not attempt to spin. 2. Check voltage in battery, all is well (>12V). 3. Second/Third Crank: Horrible grinding sound, engine did not...

Well I called and chatted with 4 different dealers, two local, two online big boys... nothing. All said the part was discontinued with none available nationwide. This part might as well be MH370. So I found a PCV grommet at O'Reileys that had too much material in all dimensions and shaved it...

I'd be concerned about the cracks in the potting of the coils. I'm not sure if there's an off the shelf product you can use to re-seal those, but that would probably be a good idea.

Yup, that won't work. Sell that one and get one made for a CT26 if you still have the stock turbo.

Here's a crude video I did a while back on timing a 7M. This will be very relevant when you re-install the CPS. I have good luck with it these days, but before I'd done it a dozen times or so I kept having a hard time getting it installed on the right tooth. If you're a tooth off with the CPS...

Wow, so that's what the sub frame looks like without a slow, constant oil leak and dirt... Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

I haven't tried them for this part, but I tried in the last couple weeks for another that they showed online, but after placing my order they emailed to say my requested parts were discontinued and unavailable. I'll see if I can give them a call ahead though and check. Thanks. Yeah I can...

Hey all, I have another problem with finding parts. I'm hoping someone out there may have run into it as well. In my huge task of cleaning the shit out of my 7MGTE I seem to have misplaced my Idle Speed Control Valve Check Valve Seal. Part no 90210-26001 from the diagram below (bottom left)...

While I love the weathertechs from a rugged function perspective (I've got the digital fit liners on order for my Land Cruiser) I don't think that would be at home in a sports car. I want something luxurious/sporty!

I came to SM to check on precisely this. The longer I keep my mk3 the more I restore and the more I think I'm likely to keep the thing forever. This wing is at the top of my body tasks. Good quality floor mats would be good, too. ;)

Asterix probably addressed your concerns, but don't worry if you completely ruin the copper parts. Those must be replaced with new anyways. Crush washers, like most sealing mechanisms aren't meant to seal more than once. Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

I dont recall any rubber seal from when I did this years ago. Can you point out where it is based on the numbered diagram here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=4503&P=1

Oh, i suppose it might have been. The link seems dead now. I know I've made that mistake before - thinking cloth shadow grey wasn't shadow grey. I think the trim in the door panels in leather cars looks far better. My car is cloth and it just isn't as nice. I'll look to re-upholster in...

Wow, not many that clean left - especially hardtop turbo. Shame it has cloth interior, non-shadow grey.