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The heads are identical, the only difference is the intake (edit) camshaft, which can be swapped over (need to adjust the valve clearances though).

Thats completely normal of a clutch type LSD

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=2211&P=2 No problem, that should have all the part numbers for every fuel sealing washer you need. Just make a list and bring it to your dealer to make things easy!

If there are no signs of leakage, I wouldn't even waste my time replacing them. The rear main is probably the only one i would do considering the transmission has to come off in order to replace that one. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=93 The torque on those...

They fixed it, it was listed as like 19,000 earlier

I can tell you one thing...don't go for the analog ProSport wideband... got to be one of the worst gauges I have owned!

Any CPS will plug right in, even if the connector is a different color. Pull your EFI fuse for about a minute and put it back to reset the ECU, then see if the code comes back.

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_6001152_0174841859&An=599001+101987+50070+2070018 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140482562211&viewitem=#vi-content Can't comment on quality, but they are MLS like the stock ones are. Looks like Napa...

In my opinion, you should sell it as is. There is no point selling someone a half assed built engine, at least if you sell it as is they can repair it as they please. Everything needs to be measured, you can't tell just by looking at it.

The AFX can be purchased with both the Bosch or NGK NTK sensor depending on where you buy it. I question that article considering they didn't provide any numbers, mostly speculation. Also, they said there was no analog output on the AFX, which is definitely false.

+1 for AFX, works very well and is extremely simple. Make sure when if buy it, you buy one with the NTK sensor, not the Bosch! NTK is much more accurate. My only complaint is that the update speed of the digital readout is rather slow, but if you are logging with the analog output, the update...

Check your harness right near the EGR pipe going from the valve to the intake manifold. If the harness is resting on it, there is a good chance that is where your problem is!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_fG_b65WiU Give that a watch for the exact answer to your question haha

Looks good man just read through your build...I have to say though... this was me when I saw you REUSING YOUR OLD RINGS! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mH3tRJaXXk

If you get a new pump you need to make sure you check whether or not you have PPS as there are different types of pumps.

I believe that connector is the same connector used for the knock sensors. It is used to turn on your aux fans if coolant temp reaches a certain point, I think its around 220 F IIRC. You can use this part number if you want a new one, but verify it is the same before you buy it. 82219-89103

The long hood, 80s style inside and out, and the fact that it is very ahead of its time. Its got nothing short of a luxury style interior with full power everything standard, automatic climate control etc.

Ah I have seen that crank pulley on Cressida 7mge's as well.

:D Thanks, the IC is right up against the crashbar, didn't have to remove or cut it. I didn't have to cut or remove the latch/horn support bracket either surprisingly.

Lookin good! If I am not mistaken, Cressida 7mge's had the dipstick in the front location instead of the middle, though I didn't think it would even work with a mid sump pan.. not to mention you have a supra 7mge intake manifold, pretty weird.