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Interesting... The stock rubber line wouldn't have that issue, might be a hidden danger. I wouldn't think it would happen though unless you're missing the main ground that goes directly to the block.

Exhaust leak or a simple valve tick.

One word... Lawyer I have zero tickets on my record because of lawyers. Sure, you may pay a bit, but the cost of not having it on your record is worth it.

Mains should have been marked if the machinist wasn't going to keep them in strict order...

This depends entirely on what headgasket was used. If it's a stock style, 100% absolutely not. Metal, well, you have a chance of it working. At this point though, I wouldn't mess with it. If it's isn't broke...don't fix it.

No center point so far as I see in the diagrams.

Ah, well, they're not wrong on this one...

That's a sub-assembly that could be swapped. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=SR&P=4 covers how to take the steering column apart. That looks like the thrust stopper, and you have to remove the main shaft to get it out. Would be less work to swap the entire...

Like I said, I used a chasing tool originally, it broke. Ended up using a tap to get the crap out (and it still took forever to get them clean).

Drop a 1UZ in and call it a day. I'd love to own one, but the older a car gets, the harder it is to find replacement parts (especially interior).

Right under the CPS? There's a 90 degree hose right there. If it's missing it's heat sheild and/or you're missing the heat shield on the manifold, it will quickly fail.

Same reason people get ripped off on anything, they don't know any better. There's a lot of shady stuff they can do to get out of any obligations.

Not supposed to remove the rear timing case without removing the oil pan and head first... You also don't need to remove it to replace the oil pump drive and front main seal.

How do you know it's the driveshaft? Motor/tranny mounts sounds more likely given when it's happening.

Without oil, K&N isn't doing a whole lot of good anyway. It may be worth testing, but be careful! You have a 600HP vacuum, so watch your hands...

Yep, it's years of buildup.

PCV and EGR, it's normal.

I had to use a normal tap (also, make sure it's for blind holes, flat tip,not pointed). Broke one of the "thread restoring" taps...

FTFY If you're familiar with the way the ACIS system works, it's the exact same concept, but it's dampening it instead of enhancing it. Stops rich and lean conditions based on the oscillations. Not true.

Yes, they should go all the way to the bottom of the holes. Bolts only use about half the threads while studs use them all.