Local salvage yards maybe.
Make a post on here in the want to buy section.
If push comes to shove. I might be able to get you one. I was at a local salvage yard today and there was a turbo supra there. I didn't notice if the resistor was there or not, but I could easily go back and check...
You should have a 4 wire plug that comes out with the igniter plugs from the enging harness along with the engine to chassis plug over there right behind the battery and fuse box. I'll bet that that 4 wire plug is not plugged into anything and it should be plugged into the injector resistor pack...
That is the fuel pump resistor pack, not the injector resistor pack. The injector resistor pack is in the same spot just on the other side..... Refer to the link that dumbo posted in post #9 of this thread IIRC..... Look scrolll all the way to the right (i.e, looking at the drivers side of the...
No, that is the is the fuel pump resistor that is on the passanger side, not the injector resister pack....
The injector resistor pack is mounted in the same spot but on the drivers side....
You said it was there and plugged in the whole time, you are referring to the injector resistor pack and not the fuel pump resistor pack right? The one on the left (drivers) side shock tower / wheel well correct?
Dustin, I'll give you a call later, but just to let you know a head of time, I goofed. I dont have the studs... I forgot that I had pulled them about about a year ago and sold'em and went back to the stock bolts.... I do have the pulley though......
Poo, I agree.... Toyota didn't start using them until the early 90's... and only one newer stuff like and example is the UZ engines which have torque to yeild head bolts, and main studs. Even then, they are reusable as long as they are still within spec based on body diameter.....
Maybe on some cars, but I have never heard this about toyota's or most manufatures for that matter.
If they were one time use, this would be specified in the service manual same with torque to yeild bolt. Plus there would also be bolt specs such as measured length or measured shoulder...
The ignition system on a GTE engine is whats called Waste Spark. This type of set up fires 2 cylinders at the same time. One thats on compression stroke and one that is 180 degrees out which is on exhaust stroke. Cylinder pairs are 1 & 6, 2 & 5, and 3 & 4. Each of those groups are matching in...
Oh, dont even worry about the coil cause it fires both cylinders at the same time so you would have lost both that are connected to that coil, not just one of them....
If you pull one of the wires and nothing changes, then that cylinder is dead (so to speak).
Could be a bad wire, bad plug, bad injector, bad injector wiring or possible a problem with that cylinder engine wise like extremely low or no compression..... I would first check the resistance of...
When you say wire, do you mean the plug wire (high tension lead) or do you mean the coil harness plug (i.e. two small wires that plug into the bottom of the coil)?
I third that motion about them not being one time use.... Like poo said, they are not torque to yeild. They are just a standard 8mmX1.25 grade 10.9 bolt.. You could even get them at an ACE Hardware if you wanted. There is nothing special about them....
I've always reused them and have never...
Sorry ass Motec Shit!!!!!!! J/K....... ;)
Me personally, I dont mind waste spark and batch fire. I've had good luck with it and dont really see that much differance between it and a fully sequencial everything for a street car unless your that worried about emissions and gas mileage. I have...
Ian, I dont know about the whole 24 inj. thing above by midship, but looking at the M800 spec, it would easily handle the V12 as long as you didn't want to run Full Sequencial fuel and ignition. 6 paired batches injectors and waste spark.
Only 86-88 GE cars with the yellow top injectors had resistor packs cause yes, they were Low Imp. Later cars with lime green top injectors were High Imp. thus, did not have resistor packs....
Dont worry, you didn't fry it as long as the resistor pack plug was not jumped with jumper wires to...
Why not just run full standalone. I dont see why this cant be done unless there is something that Im missing here. Thats how I plan on doing it if I do get a chance in the future to pick one up and swap it in....
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