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Yeah, no getting around the piston outrunning the flame with a low R/S at high rpm. Usually they are brazed, and as long as you can source the correct sleeves and custom rods, and have the hood space, it's great for race engines. I've seen folks hit 2:1 with a good deck plate :evil2:

2618 eh, probably a good idea for that kind of compression. I am a little surprised at a few things, who designed them? I'd really like to take a look at the ports and a better look at the throat area but I understand why, looks like the valve guides were ground all the way to the port roof...

So did you weld up the head and shape it? Or still trying to work with the stock ports and chambers? Looks like someone took a spoon to the bottom end. Don't mean to be a "asking for pics guy" but I want to see the head and pistons too ;)

Just curious, but have you considered running a dry deck?

Sorry, my misunderstanding. I meant that best power is usually at about ~13:1 with all else said and done so long as you keep things from melting and have the proper swirl/cc/pistons to keep preignition at bay. Most people run richer to use the cooling effects of the added fuel, I tend to run...

It's the area of the scroll into the turbine (a1-a6), nothing to do with a/f "The turbine housing A/R (area/radius) ratio is the area (A) of any turbine inlet scroll cross-section divided by the distance from the center of that cross-section to the center of the turbine shaft (R). For any...

I'm not saying it won't make the power, I'm saying you can do it more safely, with more power if you do have it done. A clipped turbine will pass more gas yes, but it has a point of diminishing returns and you're losing turbine efficiency when you do it by it's very nature. I define the...

I'm not talking about porting the wastegate, I'm talking about increasing the flow potential across and around the turbine, out the exducer bore. Smoothing the entry into the wastegate does help flow, mostly by reducing turbulance, but not what I mean in this case. I sent a message to one of...

It's not the injectors, it's the turbo itself, I'm sure I'll be ignored, but I'm telling you as a absolute fact, that the CT26 is not suitable for high flow use without work on the turbine housing. Yes, you can get the job done by hosing down the engine with enough fuel to evaporate to lower the...

You may be offsetting a very high chamber temp with enough fuel to keep it from melting ringlands. Even on my 165 running over 17psi on the stock CT26 was enough to put the EGTs above 1500 and that would be a much lower flow then the 7M :| I've seen it happen many a time with upgraded 26s...

What are your EGTs though?

Can always port the turbine housing out to keep it out of surge

You want them in series or parallel?

Cosworth doesn't make them anymore.

Shift point is determined by gearing, but it would need to run a lower redline than a larger r/s motor could run before the pistons would effectively outrun the flame, though port design, piston design, manifold design etc all play heavily into the burn characteristics, too much to explain here...

That's part of it. The other part is that your pistons will outrun the flame front and bmep (brake mean effective pressure, this is torque) will suffer enormously. If you're curious, the most traumatic moment for the rods is the exhaust stroke, because the exhaust gases are already vented...

Fill the deck, machine the head for external cooling and tap the freeze plugs and run water manifolds straight through the freeze plugs. That will shore up a number of weak areas.

If you're interested in actually putting them into casting production it will need a plenum. That will benefit all parties, can be used with other stock hardware with the VAM, and will definetly please the GTE crowd, MAFT becomes a very valuable option for the N/A crowd at this point as well...