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Has he tried recalibrating the sensor? IIRC, you're supposed to run a free-air calibration every so often, esp. if you're using leaded fuels. The sensor is going to naturally degrade over time, but in most cases can be recal'd several times before outright failing.

I agree with changing the battery. It's most likely damaged and is drawing too much current from the alternator to fully power your system at lower engine speeds. When you stab the throttle, the alternator spins faster, providing more current to the whole system...so your lights go off. Think...

UGH! Sorry to hear about the damage, but glad ya got it back...of a sort. Hopefully the damage isn't irreversible, and the cops/city pay for getting it fixed...

Innovate is some good shit, most everyone I know uses it...or the Dynojet Wideband Commander...but that one's kinda pricey. I would check these guys out though (www.wbo2.com), I've got their 2A0 DIY kit (good if you're capable with a soldering iron and decent with electronics), and it's been a...

Canon SD1000 Camera w/a 1gig SD Card, Alpine CDA-9885 Deck with the iPod interface cable, some Music Trivia DVD game (looks like it'll be pretty cool), a couple shirts, Dragon wall ornamentation, and a check for $200...which is going to be promptly spent on new gears for the truck...heheh.

See sig...

It's official -- I'm Lo-Jacking my car after it gets fixed...

No kidding...get this shit. I was hangin' with my sister that night, and she got a text from her ex-boyfriend...his mom's car got stolen from right in front of their house. And to top that, all their christmas presents and shit were in the car. Merry Fuckin' Christmas, huh? I hope dude gets...

Naturally Aspirated -- a.k.a., Non-Turbo...

Talk about going out in a blaze of glory...

Well....color me pwned....LOL! I blame myself though, really....for not double-checking shit I hear....D'OH! Then again, I haven't really looked at Chebby stuff in years, being a Mopar Guy and all....HA! Thanks for the corrections...learn sumthin' new every day. :biglaugh:

Where'd you read that the LS1 is an aluminum block? LS1 is cast-iron, LS2 is the alum. variant of it.

LS1 is not the same as the older blocks. It's a completely different design aside from the basic v-shape and 8 cylinders. Oh, and 383 has a 4.030" bore too... :icon_cool As far as the overheating thing, I'm sure that was probably true back in the day, but engine and cooling technologies...

400's a better motor. If you actually get the '400' block casting, it's already designed for the longer stroke of the 400 crank. In the 350 block, that extra stroke will put extra side-load on the pistons, and your motor won't last much more than 50-60k before you need to tear it down...

I really don't think you would need to pull much timing, if any, since the nitrous acts as a cooling agent for the intake charge. Maybe switch to a 1-step or 2-step colder plug and maybe a couple degrees pulled....although, I will admit -- I've never played with nitrous personally on any of my...

I still have the CC controls from my old '87. When I put the Grant wheel on it, I modded the CC controls to fit in a Radio Shack Project Box, and mounted it in front of that empty pocket under the stereo (aftermarket unit).

D'OH!

Well...to them, you are old....LOL! Think back to when you were 17/18....was 35 considered young to you? Hell no, someone that old was half-dead! :biglaugh:

You Chair Farce guys are always doin' shit backwards.... :sarcasm: over here in the Navy, we only say 'Sir' to Civilians or Officers.... :biglaugh:

I've got the Razr2 V9....It's Teh Secks! LOL! HUGE improvement over the first Razr....so far, seems to me like they fixed everything that was wrong with the first one...LOL!