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It does now that I look at it...but it's not cracked. That's just the seam on the bottom of the pipe...there's a little casting ridge there, and it's just got some grime in it.

Haven't checked 'em recently, but I will. I've got a hardpipe kit ready to put on anyway, just in case....but I'm waiting for the new IC to get here before I put that on.

No audible detonation that I can remember, but it does run lean at light throttle when it's not warmed up. Aside from that, it runs rich most of the time, and backfires on shift sometimes.

I don't know what you're talking about... :sarcasm:

Alright, as promised...here are pics of my plugs. Any experts on plug reading, feel free to chime in on thoughts. All plugs as a group - right to left is cylinder 1-6 in order. Plug 1: Plug 2: Plug 3: Plug 4: Plug 5...

LMAO! That's funny Brent. Anyone know off-hand what size that coupler is? Decided to change my plugs while I was down that far retorquing the head (BTW, I was shocked to find that they actually used ARP bolts on the thing...). Old plugs were HAMMERED! I'll post pics in a bit...

I swear to God guys, my car when I got above 4500 sounded like a '03/04 Cobra...LMAO!

I just had the body shop do it....heheh... :sarcasm: :biglaugh:

Not sure about the supra world, but over in the Dakota arena, Falkens have been kind of a mediocre tire. Some like 'em, some hate 'em and say they're shit.

Depends on if you're building an N/A motor or forced induction. Some things already mentioned are displacement and lightening the rotating assembly. Any way you can increase the force and/or decrease the energy needed to move the rotating assembly is going to give you more power. Spark...

Sumitomos are good tires, I've got the HTR-Zs on the rear of my car. Buddy of mine had the Z-IIs on his 350Z and said they were one of the best tires he ran. Fuzion ZRi's are a good tire as well, they're supposed to be the Budget Potenza tire (Fuzion is owned by Bridgestone). Another tire you...

rod length can affect torque, but it doesn't make it. Torque is a derivative of force and the distance that force moves. That's why motors with a longer stroke make more torque. What longer rods do, is keep the piston at the top of the rotation for longer, which helps generate more force when...

Awesome, thanks! (Came apart easily this time...I did notice, however, that 300* was a bit much...slightly warped the edge of the black frame in a couple spots.) BTW...you know anyone that has a spare passenger light hanging around? Chipped a piece of my lens of last night when I was trying...

What about stock bolts and a MHG? Will it still be 72? I'm assuming that they used stock bolts when they installed the MHG...I mean, they took shortcuts with a bunch of other shit, why not the bolts too?? LOL! Oh, and by 'they', I mean the previous owner.

Roger that, thanks Grim! I'll knock that out tomorrow.

Bosch sensors are garbage, they're hit-or-miss on if they're good out of the box or not. I'd recommend going to www.oxygensensors.com and getting the Walker brand sensors. Never had a problem with those on any of my vehicles.

GM was supposed to bring the Ute over when they brought the Monero over (GTO). I never thought it'd go under the Pontiac moniker though....always was supposed to be the resurrection of the El Camino. I like the Utes, but that Pontiac grille has GOT TO GO!!!

I know everyone is saying to take the ARP hardware up to 85ft/lbs, but what about OEM bolts? Is 85 ok, or do I need to go with a lower value?

Tried searching, but maybe I'm not using the right key words.... Anyway, does anyone know how to take apart the tail lights without destroying them? Mine had a shitload of water in them, and I still can't get all of it out, even with cycling the lights through the oven...they're fogged right...