like i said i am not sure which code is left. it has a GE block and i need to do the single knock sensor conversion to it. i was having problems with the FP relay/resistor pack so i jumped them to get it running.
i don't know what it's technically called, the air valve between the 3000 pipe...
ok then why would it run fine for a while then start giving me trouble now? it ran fine for a little while. but i have been considering a different harness from an 89 turbo auto to see if this would help
jdub,
i did search came up with nothing, i printed out the na-t swap and followed it while doing my swap. i have a few hundred of pages printed out that i was using to try to get this done. i don't ask questions unless i'm at a complete loss.
sorry but figured since it is a gte now that...
ok new problem.
car runs and idles fine was driving it some too. now it started idleing high like a vacuum leak. i found that if i pinch of the bypass valve it slows down to under 1000 rpms. but when i try to drive it it bogs out. now it free revs fine in park. i will check fuel pressure...
i'd try to get the whole car. never know what you may run in to along the way in the swap. as any one can tell you here. a donor car is a life saver for a swap.
as said before, buy a donor car. i did the same swap and bought a donor car for 600 bucks that ran and drove. go full gte swap and save yourself the headache. gte injectors won't work on a ge harness. you will need a resistor pack for the injectors.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/LG+-+42%22+Class+/+1080p+/+240Hz+/+LCD+HDTV/9317795.p?id=1218085598965&skuId=9317795
this is what i have. don't know your price range but i play lots of xbox on it and it has a great picture.
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