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hmm, yea. I dunno how you'd make a body tho. Actually come to think of it, I don't even know where the parting lines are for most of the unitbody in that car, presumably it was welded together at the factory, but there'll have to be parting seems somewhere.

you know for alot of parts fiberglass would work just fine. Doesn't have the same "bling" value I guess tho.

errr, sorry, you're right you did, I was looking for them in the other linked post and didn't see any. can you give me a rough idea how much surface area on each axis we're talking about here? on the horizontal axis (parallel to the floor) and verticle? if so I aughta be able to give you a...

adjuster has a post on rod knock, grounding out plug leads will help you determine where it is, if in fact that's what it is.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/search.php?searchid=582454 this comes up daily dude.

I vote this gets cleaned up and non-relevant stuff is removed.

eii, no worries guys, I just hope I didn't ruffle too many feathers, I wasn't trying to come off like a prick at all.

yea they covered densities, but not strengths, not other than "hard as wood" or "hard as rock" I'd like to see something abit more quantitative before I'd start spraying the stuff. Like I say tho, please, somebody do it and get us the results, if you prove me wrong, we all benefit (including me).

if he asked me to help him attatch a jet engine to his car, I'd probably help him with that too. It's up to him to figure out if he really wants/needs to do it, and he might have 1000 reasons that he doesn't wanna explain here. if someone asks me for the weather section of the newpaper, I give...

first off, psi isn't the measurement of load, the measurement you're looking for is ft*lbs, or nm for us metric thinking folks. secondly, the measurement for chassis flex is knm/mm(kilonewton meters/millimeter) meaning if you apply x number of kilonewton meters of force, the chassis will flex...

tomcat was alot of things, but underpowered was never really one of them.

no problem man. I don't like hassling people over dumb ideas, just help them as best as you can and let them figure iout if it's dumb or not in the end.

yea I'll add in a feature that calculates how much volume you lose for each thousanth of an inch of machining on the block or head, so add up the total thou's of machine work, and then subtract it from the head volume and you'll be there.

it's a non-interference motor, it can't be valve to piston contact. out of round cylinder will allow the piston to jostle along the longitudinal axis, however your wrist pin circlips should prevent that from being too bad. Depends entirely on the tolerance of the piston I suppose. Piston slap...

guys, how about rather than berating him about how wrong his decision is, we help him act on it. Tim, as far as PS and AC go, so long as your AC isn't charged you should be able to just unbolt it and throw it in a box for if you ever want to put it back on. Power steering, you should atleast...

hmmm, ok, yea, spark is next, thanks for checking the fuel by the way. code check is in order, probably something is unplugged. You could do the old water spritz under the hood in the dark test too, to see if your post-coil ignition is grounding somewhere.

I find it more likely that the problem is fuel, rather than spark, if it starts with starter fluid and dies as soon as you stop spraying starter fluid, that's a definate fuel symptom. I'd check fuel pump, maybe somebody can clarify, but there SHOULD be a schraeder valve somewhere on the fuel...

there are different types yes, analogue vs digital, frankly if you know what you're doing, you can get along with a cheap analogue one, the supra has timing marks on the balancer and on the timing cover, you can just use those. You don't need to manually compensate which the digital ones will...

this is one of those "works in theory, might even survive a couple of passes in a drag car, but in the real world is a really bad idea" things.

I foresee (thanks mkiii n00b) that you'll have to piddle about with the ignition timing, and that you'll have atleast 1, if not several vacuum leaks. This will be especially crucial regarding the EGR, if you decide to just disable it (which I did) you'll need to cap a few vacuum lines from the...