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it's been doing it off and on for a while. i even had a jumperbox hooked up to it. when it happened the other day, i had someone hit the starter while i turned the key and it fired right up.

nope, it's definitely an r154. i just wonder why they want you to do it that way. i had no problems pulling the trans out then the motor. when i put it back together i installed the pp, then put the trans on. i put the motor and trans back in the car as one.

nice^. well, i tried to go for a ride, but my starter just clicks. the damn thing is only 6 months old. time to find a better quality starter. since i couldn't go for a ride, i spent more time online looking for a new clutch kit and 1pc driveshaft. :(

wow!

ok. it honestly came out like any clutch i've ever done. it seems like it would be a pain to tighten the pp after the trans is in. thanks for the info.

I see. I had no problems doing it my way. is there any particular reason for doing it that way? I've never heard of that before.

i have a question.... i keep seeing people mention to remove the pp from the flywheel before taking the trans out, and when installing the trans- bolt it up last. when i put my new motor in last year, i pulled the trans with the pp still bolted to the flywheel, and installed it the same way...

hey all. i'm looking to upgrade my clutch and get a 1 pc driveshaft. here's my mods, can you throw out suggestions as what i will need? stock lower end, bic ddp, full 3" exhaust, aem ver 1, 60-1 from albert, 600cc injectors, wally 255, hard i/c piping, afpr, aasco lightened flywheel. i...

thanks for the tips guys. i pulled the trigger on a ver1 in the for sale section. i'm sure i'll be back for more help. lol

no pics, but great news...... i just ordered my new turbo from albert. :) :) :)

i saw that he was busy. he posted that he had 2 60-1's to sell right now. i sent him a message right away, but nothing yet. i want to go with a bolt-on turbo because i have a new bic ddp and new intercooler piping. if that stuff was stock still, i'd definitely go with a complete t4 setup.

damn. THAT sucks. it's down to albert or sp engineering. new all the way for me. :)

ok, stupid question. if 18x9.5 +35 with 265-35's fit great in the back, how would 10.5 + 30 or 35 with 295's fit? i'm looking at that size and it seems like it might work. i get really confused with offsets. would the 10.5's sit in an inch further or out an inch? thanks....

yeah. i just sent albert another pm. i hope he gets back to me. :)

ok, cool. i saw on the dm website that the ver 2 is for manual cars only. another quick ?? i see a lot of threads with people having problems getting the aem's to work. can i use my stock coils and whatnot until i can upgrade them? thanks........

yeah, i'm not sure i'm willing to take a chance with $550. i'd rather pay a little more and get a good turbo.

hey all. i'm thinking about getting an aem, ver1 or ver2. my car is a 90 auto with a manual swap, but still has the auto ecu. will i need to get a manual ecu, or will this one work? thanks ..... kevin

i've heard a lot of good things about the sp "bolt on" turbos. what i want is something that's good for 400-450 wheel. i originally wanted one from albert, but i haven't gotten a reply. i just talked to someone at precision, and they make the ones for sp engineering. i was just hoping to get it...

i spent more time online trying to find a new turbo, and other parts. i haven't gotten a reply from albert on his 60-1, so i might consider an sp turbo. any suggestions for a bolt on model? i want a new one now. lol

getting ready to pull the trigger on a turbo. it's between one of these and one from albert. has anyone seen the sp ones for a good price? they're listed at $999 without any options. thanks.......