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You might want to sit down to hear this.. but I'm actually a magician. jokes aside, I might get around to emailing that site..

1J specific parts used to be pretty easy to order when Jeff Watson was still at Champion Toyota, but he retired, and it's never been the same. as a result, various parts are rather hard to find at this point. thankfully most of the parts are close or identical to the 2J. also, last I checked...

I've always run BKR6Es (stock plugs for the JZ motor) gapped at .28".. Most folks recommend running the 7-range though.

when I spoke to Rodel about them, he said he had a semi difficult time getting a hold of one, or so it seemed. it didn't take me too long to find them though..

only for folks who don't understand Japanese IMO.. it makes zero sense for them to be using the terms, less trying to write/romanize them. lol it's not pronounced cookie.. it's "co" as in co-worker with the vowel extended, hence the "u"/ and "key"

Indeed, it's beyond me as to why I never considered the issue.. I have to fix this, but! Is any of this tied to the voltage drop I wonder. guess we will see..

Thanks for that reply, it helped me a lot. I just have to get on it now..

Anyone?

Figured out another problem, and from speaking with BigzAvs, I think we might have the issue.. So aside from wondering how the car functioned properly until now, I asked Ben about the fact that my battery is connected directly to the alternator. He asked why? I said, I have no idea, is that...

The battery is also connected to the starter AFAIK.. As for the little wire, I think it now runs from the post where the (+) battery cable connects to the alternator.

if the line between the battery and alternator is the main area containing the problem, then replacing the cable altogether doesn't bother me at all. Now, if there are other paths to check, then those may end up becoming rather expensive in comparison.

Alright. I'll do that along with changing the alternator fuse. Could that lack of ground be causing an issue such as the one I'm having? I'm still trying to figure out why the volts progressively drop the longer the car is driven.

Every time I read that it's an easy swap, I remember all of threads concerning folks have trouble with various things.. that being said, it's not impossible, and the mechanical side of the swap isn't too bad.

You fellas may have been on to something else here.. I replaced the alternator with one from a '92 SC300 100A, and the car started up with 14.2v (already an improvement over the previous 13.7), but after driving for a while, it dropped to 13.5v, and near the end of the drive I was getting 13v...

the pic shows an ebay manifold with bracing present.. anyhow, no one is saying you have to get the MTR one. My suggestion would be to try to find a Drewgo manifold, though if that's not possible, then perhaps you'll have to go the more expensive route.

Yeah, I'm running the DM 1J replacement.. IIRC, it's just a 2J pump.

If you're going to brace it anyways, why not just buy one off ebay for a fraction of the price? Up to you though.

:rofl: clearly.

Aussies deemed them not necessary because the roads aren't paved. lol

that site just looks like super high prices for ebay quality parts, at least for the intake and exhaust manifolds I see.