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About the only issues I've heard for kel-tec is actually getting the weapons (they can't seem to make enough) and they have odd setups that can cause issues (like accidently ejecting the mag because the button is in an odd spot). Some people consider wheel guns more reliable. That was shot...

There's nothing wrong with kel-tecs... Sig is a bit expensive for a first gun. Sig makes a pretty expensive 1911. Kimber I don't recommend (they're NOT as good as they should be for the price), and Les Baer is far far too expensive... I also don't like revolvers for many reasons...

About the only person that's done them back to back was Duane, and I remember him picking up quite a lot of power. There's still a lot of variables though (runner length, porting, etc)

Clutches are rated by torque, not horsepower. If you're staying stock, use a stock replacement clutch. Nope, no specs in the TSRM, they just say to replace it. Face and backstep both have to be ground the same, and the place I've taken mine to has a book with the specs to keep the backstep...

See, the issue is the design of the wheel and not the wheel itself. Go look at what rally cars use for wheels design wise and then see the kids bitching about their thin spoke Rotas breaking when they drive off into a ditch at speed. Well, the thing is, who's really doing the "knock off" at...

It's a fat ass car...push harder.

Taurus isn't exactly known for their quality... Not to mention that a gun like that doesn't serve much of function besides an expensive range toy. (also, it's Five-Se7en not 5-7, and it's yet again a very VERY expensive gun...)

As a clutch gets worn, engadgement will change spots. Most people don't pay attention enough to freeplay either, if it's not enough, you can preload the clutch and cause slippage. No real issue with too much freeplay as long as the clutch fully disengadges.

:3d_frown:

Rota is the main supplier for the OEMs in the Phillipines. Many manufacturers (including Toyota) manufacture cars in the Phillipines... PAWI = Rota. They make and design wheels for the OEM and aftermarket. Cheap wheels = more people buying them (especially idiot ricers) = more broken...

Pics help a lot...

I still think the most comical thing is his fog lights...

That usually indicates a weak battery to be honest.

Whiteline is silver. Really no idea, though they match your dampeners quite well...

This. It goes from half, to overheating and then really overheating.

Where is the crack? It's extremely common to have a cracked housing, and usually not an issue.

FCD was NEVER meant to be used alone. It was meant to be used with the full suite of HKS piggyback controllers. Without it, it's far more dangerous than the lexus AFM...

Hint: You obviously have a dodgy electical system if it's killing a battery while driving, and you have cheap autozone e-fans on the car... I think the issues are pretty cut and dry, and JJ was spot on.

77K miles = just as neglected as the rest

Squeeze them. They usually split in such a way that closes itself up when it's just sitting there.