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Lots of warm ups and drives since i got the motor in. Ive gone up to 16psi recently and ive pushed it hard a handful of times. Safe to retorque? I have studs not bolts.

thanks starscream. I will im glad you're around :)

woah you have to retorq them after a heat cycle? Should i do that?

when it does this get under the hood and see if the throttle plate is closed. Try to turn it closed. If it goes back to normal you probably need a new cable because its getting stuck.

I kno its amazing how that little leak caused all that shuddering. yes i am. I was mostly worried because i rebuilt the motor and i never had it running proper since i did so i was worried. But im running 16psi and the thing hauls ass. No fuel cut im surprised. Ive ordered a lip, another...

I found the problem Marcenator. I swapped out the accordian and it stopped! It was leaking I took off the air filter and blocked the accordian with a soup can. Then took my compressor and set it to 15psi (the max ill be running). I turned on the compressor and i heard the leak instantly...

Assuming the JDM motor is good you should still do the headgasket before you install it. They go easily on those motors since they've been sitting so long. You're looking at 1000 give or take i think. To redo the block and head depending one how far you go id say. Get a quote from a...

most likey its useless and not connected anywhere. Like stated before extra equipment on cali vehicles.

If you are unsure about what you're capable of then sent the block out to be rebuilt/fixed. It may be a little complicated for you. Plus the block probably needs machining anyway. The head does definetley.

Cover the altenator, cps (unless you recently changed the seal). and whatever else looks like water could get it. Used compressed air to get the water out of the electrical connections, spark plug gally, and wherever else it collects. Run the motor after to make sure all the rest evaporates

I have a bunch of spare radios. any chance that what you need is attached to them? i know i just took them out and didn't remove anything. i have to locate them though

Can you safely use the tranny cooler for an oil cooler? i have a new rad with one. My stocker is finished every fin is bent.

just let the car roll slightly then let go of the clutch in gear. Just to move the crank slightly. Then try to start again. Works almost every time.

yep. i have that one.

I havent figured out the starter issues with this car. I have new contacts and it still just "clicks" when its cold. I have to roll the car and then let go of the clutch to just move everything. Then it will start. Bad battery will do it. Or if its not charged enough. I have a brand...

A good idea i got from a writeup by grimjack Use a breaker bar and turn the crank until the end of the bar touches the firewall. Give the starter a quick crank and it will bust lose.

Idle: 650rpm Turbo 700rpm NA Idle on mine always jumped to 1100 with the ac on. about 800-900 with the headlights on. at first anyway. I was going to post about having a high idle. It was at 1100 all the time and i spent a few hours going through the manual. But then i drove it for...

I wonder if you disable all the other stuff if it will go semi normal with just raised fuel pressure. then start turning the other stuff back on. See what happens

Those boxes suck. I can't even pick it up without all the tools all over inside. The tools themselves are good. They wont give you another one i doubt it. I think the only replacements they give is if you break the sockets or tools and bring in the broken pieces. They don't cover them...

your right about that but i dont know where to start. Soldering those wires didnt do anything. It seems to have gotten worse acutally. So im back to square one. If this keeps up i wont have the car much longer.