Search results

Oh okay, not having one in my hand I didn't know... couldn't see in any image, but it makes sense for it to have some sort of bypass to improve accuracy. That was figgie, not IJ. ;)

Bilstein are height adjustable, no?

Not sure what the point of changing it for winter is, unless your running at 90C even with a 70C 77C thermostat in when ambient is higher than 30F (or whatever "winter" is)... in which case - why? (77C isn't 160F BTW ;)) Unnamed brands/rebrands no one has ever heard of from a parts store is...

Tolja! :p

Not much, and not dyno'd but approximating with mods and health... ~350.

Welp, PWR, a new sensor for the pair of electrics to kick in earlier than factory. Of course in addition to a new fan clutch to ensure its working properly, as well as no condenser... whatever little that may be worth.

I anticipate having plenty of cooling overhead. Right now it's running ~50C water temp (15F ambient) so a 160* thermostat is an improvement on that. LOL

No kidding... 120C and it doesn't move more than 1mm elevated from normal.

Ugh... seeing that reminds me of a motor that comes out of the box - pin pre-removed. LOL

Napa THM 42 is a Stant 13366. On the NAPA premium stats they even go as far as to say they are "Superstat" type LOL. gofastgeorge, you drilling a small hole to at least get them 1/2 way to a jiggle valve? I probably will, just curious.

Yea, the online one I was able to find through a bit of online searching, since I don't have a lathe :( was one by... Motorad? Claiming "fail-safe", was definitely pricey but I have no idea if its any good LOL. Edit: on that NAPA #42, did a google search and came up with a bunch of Miata stuff...

I feel like I missed something... lie? I never doubted those points, but the designers have other agendas to worry about like keeping emissions below a certain level increasing the efficiency by running as hot as the structure allows like you said. We all know the flaw they had in prescribing...

I control what temp the ECU sees. As to the heat/efficiency bit I stated in my initial post "I want to try" not "This is definitely the way to go gimme a 160* thermostat NOW" for a reason. I want to try it and see what the results are. ;)

^Definitely!.............If you're an idiot. If the coolant GAUGE sensor saw no coolant, that pinhole had been there quite some time as the gauge sensor is way down on the water neck. No surprise you torched the head. Do you think that a JZ runs OK with a coolant level 1/2 what it should be?

Pretty self explanatory, I'd like to try a 160* thermostat in my 7M and I know (as I'm sure has been brought up before) that TRD makes one for JZs but I'm having trouble finding a nice, high quality 7M version. To get these bits out of the way: -The ECU is not an issue -Excess cooling...

Just a heads up, the 7 plug is 1 heat range cooler. Should probably go with 6 unless you are 100-200BHP over stock. Use the finder on www.ngksparkplugs.com to get the correct PN... not the intarweb forum.

Twice in one day! ;)

Stock block... yes, definitely BS. LOL

Clip and a giant boot that covers the entire sensor "bulb". Knock sensors arent a "should", they are a must, without them it will run in a reduced performance mode and show an error code. If you think a lack of EGR caused you to pop a chunk of the block out, you are seriously misinformed...

Yep.