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Not a single kit on the market is "plug and play" because of the very nature of the IC system (there's a reason toyota used so many long flexible tubes...)

Honestly the wilwood set isn't much more than piecing the nighpager setup together... (not to mention the wilwoods are better performance wise) OP already has the parts though.

Belt tension should be enough to remove them (if not, some monkey overtorqued them)

Yet the 2JZ is nearly 100% bolt in... That's like saying you'd like to go with a jet engine because it's laying around...

If you have issues, DM will stand behind their products. The same can not be said about some random ebay seller...

Your loss :p While you may not get that hot up there, A/C is needed to clear foggy windows effectively :p Plus, it's really not much weight, but whatever lol

There's no drag on the engine unless the clutch is engadged on the compressor.

Why remove something that adds value to the car? But anyway, removing the entire system is quite involved (requires pulling the dash if you're really doing it all)

It all comes down to brass tacks. - 1UZ is expensive for a minor power gain and only a 4.0 - 2UZ is heavy and designed for trucks so it doesn't make much more power than the 1UZ when it's a 4.7 - 3UZ is a 4.3 and it actuall has racing heritage with Toyota, so parts might be available to tune...

The issue with most of these is that if you're serious about track use, you need to have the ability to have them revalved without being sent to Japan...

Yeah, you bend them back and lay a bead behind them so they can't flatten back out.

Most BBKs are bolt on so it really doesn't matter. The issue is that if you were to change the mounting points, you limit people's selection of brakes and give them only one option. There is a hole and boss on the knuckle for the sensor.

Yeah, if you're basicly going to redesign it, there's a ton you could do while there. - Different material to lower unsprung weight. - Different mounting points for brake calipers for bolt on BBK (though honestly I dunno if this is a good idea as there is already a good selection of BBK's for...

Damn straight... had that issue on mine and was tempted to just buy new drip rails as I had to cut the old seals out because they were glued in. :3d_frown:

It's usually the drip rail to targa seal, not the actual seals that are leaking. It's best to replace the seals anyway since you'll need to remove them and they may be damaged from removal.

Steel or billet aluminum.

Personally, if you're going to go through all this hassle, you might as well make it a lighter/stronger part as well. Less unsprung weight is always a good thing.

Keep the honda as a daily driver...

Go buy/rent your own media blaster :) Also, while I don't know if the paint on the car is lead based, they used lead as a filler back then for seams and other things... So yes, it's bad news.

Yep, though it depends what you're looking for. Demonoid was an amazing source, was hoping it would be brought back by now...