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Yes. If you want a MHG to seal and LAST, you must be absolutely sure that the block and head are flat and smooth enough to meet that manufacture's required Roughness Average specifications. You are taking a big gamble on here by not machining the block too. Many people do this, some get away...

We're not joking when we say that, "if you want to make sure you'll never have to go through this again, then pull the block and have it fixed up like you had the head done".

Stock with permatex brake quiet or a copper type spray on it then. You'll have higher compression unless you can find a thicker gasket that's a composite...

It doesn't complain PERIOD. That's more than enough.

Holy mother... Have you asked how much it would be to just upgrade your valve and change out the clutch packs (I think that's what they're called) with a beefier version?

I'm at work, sorry. If you don't want to pull the block, then my suggestion is to stay away from the MHG's as they will be prone to blowing without being absolutely sure the block is flat and smooth enough for your MHG brand's specific RA specs.

All you have to do is measure the thickness of the head to see if there was ever any material taken off of it besides what your mechanic took off. The very best there is is open to discussion, but most would say the 2.0mm HKS stopper MHG, but you'd be wasting your money on it without pulling...

Just now for me after looking at it once again ;).

2.0mm should leave you safe ;). But it you really want to know, the stock thickness of the 7M head is 116mm from cam deck the head deck.

1600 will get you a built auto that will beat a manual with the same, or slightly more power every day of the week ;).

A compressed stock HG is 1.37mm thick. .006" is 0.1524 mm. To keep the stock compression, all you have to do is the simple math ;).

What BOSS turbo did you get, stage and trim??

How do you know the block is flat and smooth?? You need to edit the amount taken off the head in your first post, you're scarring people who are reading this.

What about teeing the TB port back into the line going to the accordian hose??

How much was taken off the head? Is the block flat and smooth?

click here for how to check your engine codes without needing to run your car

Supras, not kids to clarify ;).

It'll raise on it's own once you put a full turbo back exhaust on it and larger hardpipes and a better IC ;). I have all of that and just running off of my wastegate I'm pegging the stock boost gauge.

You gots ta say please ;).

You're procrastinating as bad as I am right now with getting this fucking broken bolt out of the lower control arm on my geo so I can swap CV axles :3d_frown: I think I'm getting ready to instal my aeromotive AFPR