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Sorry, remove it from the fuel system is what I ment.

Definitely check the turbo for play, sounds like its on its way out.

Sand blasting the head without putting it in a cleaning tank may not have been the best idea. If your bearing were damaged due to sand then you will have to pull the crank. If you drag your finger nail across any of the surfaces where bearing would be on the crank and it catches you should have...

Seen many Toyota's fire up just fine without a cold start injector. You will be ok if you remove it.

I'd just wait and get one that already has a 5 speed. Especially if you plan on paying someone else to swap it.

This is not true at all. The VR4 caliper are 4 piston fixed position where the MKIII calipers are singal piston sliding which allows for alot more flex in the caliper which reduces stoping force.

As far as I know most brake pad made now days do not need to be broken in due to a process performed on the pads when they are made. I have un-done more brakes-plus and other $100-all-4-wheel brake replacement places then I would care to ever think about (since I work for Toyota) and the number...

The torque plate is used when boring and honing is done because metal is obviously being taken off and you need to simulate the cylinder head being mounted to the engine to get correct fitment. If you are not having the motor bored then the flex hone works just fine since you are only tweaking...

If the key is only a year old then its possible that the ignition cylinder is worn out.

Sounds like forced upgrades :evil2:

It really depends one what you bought the car for. I've bought and sold 3 MKIII's (Looking for a 4th even though I swore them off 2 years ago :aigo:) The first one I bought was an 86.5 N/A automatic Targa top, bought for $500 put an engine in it ($700) and did some maintenance (+/- $500), GF...

I don't think I'll ever forgive my self for getting rid of these: Blitz KKK 26 Twin Turbo Kit

I'm having the exact same problem. Only my alternator has tested good 3 times.

The easiest test for the cat is to get under the car and hit it and see if anything rattles around in it. That is usually a sign that its bad. Honestly since you are using the turbo ecu, i would start there. The ecu adjusts fuel based off of a maf so it just assumes the turbos are there and...

High CO is usually running rich, the very first thing you should check is your cold start injector. They have a tendancy to stick. Next timing, cat, and spark plugs. Are you using a turbo ecu with the harness? If so then there is a good chance that is your problem.

The 1J ECU is non obdII so it does not have closed and open loop operation. If it did it would go into closed loop operation at operating temp and after a catalyst efficiency test has been completed.

If you are talking about just the addative you buy and add to your oil before a change I would say no because its a turbo'd car. If you have access to an actual motor flush machine that can purge out the cleaner then maybe. The add just thins out the oil alot so it may harm the turbo's.

Carrier bearings are what support the diff in the housing.

I think suprahero and tlo86 answer your questions accurately without jumping to conclusions. /Fail

Some of the best places for JZA70 parts are: www.driftmotion.com www.manictechracing.com Alot of 2JZ parts work for the 1JZ. I've only heard of 1 Toyota dealer that can get 1JZ parts, Jay Marks/Champion in Texas.