Lol, I misread what you were trying to ask at first. That does seem a little steep, but it really depends on what he's replacing. Mine has cost me so far well over $1800 and im doing it myself. But that is because i have bought a bunch of tools and am replacing everything possible to rid further...
If you use ARP head studs and check the block's deck surface to see that it isn't warped. Im guessing your going to get the head machined as well because that is a must.
So what is the purpose of this thread? To tell this man " Im sorry the mustang owners are just big meaneys". I say race him! Lol. To tell you the thruth this thread is just piontless.
That is really awesome, your doing a good job. Patience pays, and it shows in your build. To bad the intercooler pipe will cover that good work you've done. Oh well, it will still look really good. I have been getting a lot of good ideas from your build, keep it up man.
The problem with some domestic owners is they feel that we are completely no match due to displacement, and have themselves completely convinced that anytime any situation they will win because of that fact. The funniest thing is how most seem to believe that muscle cars came out of the factory...
As for the oldsmobile, still waiting on the frame! lol. As for the mach 1, pictures:
Once we put the clear down it looked a lot more red. Although since my flash didn't go off the first time, my camera says otherwise.
The guy who just started working for us drives this MR2.
Makes perfect sense, i agree with the analysis. I've seen your motor so i can see why you've put thought into this. Something i found strange, is on my brothers camaro he has no ventilation/grill peaces whatsoever on the front. I wonder how it even pulls air. Im guessing it must get it directed...
Lol, then this modification would be piontless for competition use. Makes sense seeing as the radiator shroud is more usefull at idle than at highway speeds.
I have actually seen testing done that shows using spacers at the rear of your hood does increase cooling efficiency. Im not sure that i would go to that extreme for a few degrees of cooling, maybe on a vehicle used in competition.
Whats the progress on the hood?
Your paint would have to be perfect to the original color. If its at all all sun faded, the hood will be an entirely different shade of white. Hence the reason aftermarket parts generally come unpainted, they will usually have some type of primer to keep them from rusting (if its not plastic)...
Maybe you should make two versions, one thats subtle and one thats not. I just can't see spending money on a hood that has a subtle raise to it, if i spend my money i worked hard for i don't want it to be a barely a noticable enhancement. Plus, a higher cowl is better for cooling.
I thought mine went out one day, turns out i had them turned off. On the 87 the dash lights can be dimmed or turned off by (or accidently rubbing your knees against) this little half wheel with a picture of a light bulb above it. It's on the left hand side of the lower portion of dash just above...
I like it, don't taper it too much. I think if you do, it will look more like a muscle car drag hood off of a foxbody. I can tell you stuck with the stock lines which i like. I believe you when you say its just an illusion because the stock lines on the hood at certain angles make the more...
As for the oldsmobile, well were just waiting on the frame. Then we get to find out if everything fits. If they don't fit we will have to strip the paint off of whatever parts don't fit and re-do them from scratch. Here's a couple pics of the parts waiting to be reunited with the car.
I know how to make images big now, so no more little tiny clickable pics. Here is the 1970 Mach 1 Mustang that needs a respray. He wants a minor color change. Its already red as you can tell but he wants it viper red like the camaro our shop painted a short time ago. This mustang was the cover...
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