Hmm.
I would have to somewhat agree with Rich.
I would really suggest you get a good EBC. one that has, say, rpm based boost, gear based boost, and a spool aid.
The only one that comes to mind is the AVC-R, which is the only boost controller I would ever recomend to anyone other than going...
yeah, I suggest getting 2 "Ought" welding cable and going that route.
4 gauge cannot handle a 7m starter too well. I ran 4 4guages to keep the wires from heating up.
Hye Grim, Can I mail you some charcoal drawings of my Ra136E I swapped into the hatch of my hardtop, so you can scan them and post them for me?
1500 hp out of a 1.5 at 70 psi ;)
The Walbro actually doesn't flow quite as well as the TT pump, but it is WAY more efficient. Two walbros flow way better than one TT pump and require less current than one TT pump. If you had a really burley alternator, I'd go with a TT pump, but ours suck, so you're better off with a walbro...
Keeping it open at all times gains nothing. The purpose of the valve is to close below a certain RPM and boost low end torque by simulating a ram air resonance effect. By holding the valve open, all you are doing is increasing the plenum volume, which leads to a throttle snap choke. You'd be...
You know, I'm not sure if it's fuel or spark Gary, but I know that it is very different from FCO. FCO in an overboost situation actually turns the car off for a moment. This is a progressive bounce, so I'd think that it's spark based on the behavior...
Yeah, well don't even think about 8K with a stock bottom end.
The stock rods don't like whipping the heavy stock pistons around like that. They have a tendancy to stretch and spit rod bearings at anything over 7K.
I wouldn't even approach 7K without ARP rod bolts.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.