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Believe everything you read in the news? :)

Ok did not know finger tight was normal. I never installed them to begin. Thanks!

Some of the ARP main studs are finger loose after removing the head. All the nuts were very tight when removing. Question is, what torque should I be applying to get them tight again? I assume this is what the allen wrench holes are for in the top of the studs? Should thread lock be used...

There's probably a good reason why ARP bolts/nuts cost 10x that of anything you get at a hardware store........in other words...why risk it, get replacements. Believe it or not, PROPER bolt/nut combos with just the right amount of torque are quite complex.

mmmmm yea, that's a bit excessive. Definitely cool though.

not really, just remove the rad. a little wiggling most of the time will get it off unless its the first time since the engine was built.

if you want cheap go normal Toyota brand If you want it done RELIABLY, Resurface the head and buy a middle of the road MHG like Cometic. If you want longest term, most reliable, HKS Stopper is a must. With the HKS, resurface and ARP headstuds youll never have to do it again, unless your rear...

Here is my setup. I did a lot of research on this forum and others prior to purchasing and setting it up. Also, unlike the majority of people i've seen, the filters will separate the oil down to 5 micron IIRC while most people dont have anything to condense the oil since most (i've seen) rely on...

3.1.3 has a crack now as well. Its not by devteam or blackra1n though i forget who makes it. My GF is using it currently bc she accidentally upgraded. I never updated from 3.1.2 yet so i still have my blackra1n crack. there is no point to go to 3.1.3

*When all of your friends and family insist on selling the 'that damn car' to get something reliable because something breaks every other week, and you agree just so you won't have to listen to them anymore even though you know you never will but probably should. *People ask "what's wrong with...

Its gonna be a very close call whether I make it with a car or not (given my new job even schedules me so i can go) :( Engine will be out this weekend and head should be in and out of the machine shop (if needed) in a day or two from when i give it to the shop next week. I've never dug this deep...

^have you contacted cxracing about this issue?

^BIC's (i believe) divorced DP added about 30HP surprisingly. There are dyno graphs around here of the before and after standard 3" vs. 3" with divorced setup.

^The stock gauge is useless. Your best bet is to use anything else other than it. Do yourself a favor and get a mechanical boost/vacuum

It may be cheap knockoff but it's built well and has proven itself to me. It cools better than The $500 fluidyne I had not to mention the warranty (which I've used personally) is unbeatable. Had the fan hit a universal that was "supposed to fit" and broke the core. All I had to do was send in a...

um, i want this. Maybe not as bright.....but i want it :drool:

^imagine if they combine the two 30 years down the road, if that were even possible; anything seems to be lately. A self healing quantum based bio-computer. In all reality, if this bio computer can really repair itself, to some degree it IS self aware, so I guess it could be adjusted to a self...

depends how you define efficiency in this case, but most likely from your perspective, the answer is a clear NO, they are NOT. Efans don't flow NEARLY as much as stock setup.

I foresee accidental AI lol. Maybe not possible, but if they are mimicking a brain... On a side note, I wonder how this will compare to quantum computers in the future.

Go mishimoto, as an owner of a Fluidyne as well as a mishi, its the best you can get for your money and honestly cools better than the fluidyne which is 2.5 times the cost.